Insulation | Loft / Roof
Wedmore - BS28
Enquiry from: Lyn G
Start Date: Immediate
The loft needs more depth added to the insulation & depending on price I might consider having it boarded. It's a 3 bed semi.
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Wedmore - BS28
Enquiry from: Lyn G
Start Date: Immediate
The loft needs more depth added to the insulation & depending on price I might consider having it boarded. It's a 3 bed semi.
Wedmore - BS28
Enquiry from: Jon N
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
installation of fibre insulation to an existing wall with 80mm cavity. 100% insulation to area of 40sqm. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedroo...
Burnham-on-Sea - TA8
Enquiry from: Kathy W
Start Date: Immediate
Kitchen knocking in to back lounge and a new kitchen putting in
Wells - BA5
Enquiry from: Annabel L
Start Date: Immediate
Bedroom wall adjacent to bathroom wall next door
Winscombe - BS25
Enquiry from: Andrew R
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation re done
Bridgwater - TA6
Enquiry from: Jennifer J
Start Date: Immediate
Extending a dropped kerb if possible please Many thanks, Jen
Somerton - TA11
Enquiry from: Lauren F
Start Date: Immediate
Hi there, we are currently in the process of buying a house, hoping to complete before Christmas. We are looking at putting a ground floor extension off of the current dining room/kitchen would be loo...
Bridgwater - TA5
Enquiry from: Vicky H
Start Date: Immediate
Advice regards damp proofing for cellar conversion
Shepton Mallet - BA4
Enquiry from: Richard H
Start Date: Immediate
Our loft insulation is old fibreglass which a recent survey (2019) says is not up to standard. The loft is 92 m2 and the house e is listed, so no foam. We need the old insulation removed and new insul...
Bridgwater - TA5
Enquiry from: Matthew R
Start Date: Immediate
Hi I'm looking for a groundwork job , I have my NPORS 360 excavator 10 tonne and above which I done in January but no one has given me the chance to get experience on it I also have my NPORS forward t...
Cheddar - BS27
Enquiry from: Ruth B
Start Date: Immediate
IRoof nsulation to former garage and gurst bathroom
Highbridge - TA9
Enquiry from: Denise G
Start Date: Immediate
3 holes for 3 portable air con units. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached how many different rooms are you looking to have wall work on: 3-4 ceilings what l...
Glastonbury - BA6
Enquiry from: Michelle G
Start Date: Immediate
I have 2 rooms and an adjoining shed I want to make it to one big space as a self contained bedroom with bath and toilet and small kitchenette if possible
Bridgwater - TA6
Enquiry from: Toni F
Start Date: Immediate
Hi there, xx xxMy name is Toni Frost from B-ELITE Martial Arts and Fitness. I am writing to you to see if you can help ‘SAVE OUR GYM’. Back in Jan/Feb of this year we took on a huge p...
Wells - BA5
Enquiry from: Lisa F
Start Date: Immediate
Wall insullation, Roof has been done
Burnham-on-Sea - TA8
Enquiry from: Pam C
Start Date: Immediate
Cavity wall insulation for my bungalow
Highbridge - TA9
Enquiry from: ANTHONY G
Start Date: Immediate
INSULATE LOFT ROOF BETWEEN JOISTS AND TYDY EXISTING LOFT INSULATION
Cheddar - BS27
Enquiry from: Smith R
Start Date: Immediate
customer made an enquiry for cavity wall insulation and confirmed on the quotatis site they would like quotes from a builder.customer lives in the cheddar area and would like a call to discuss options...
Cheddar - BS27
Enquiry from: Smith R
Start Date: Immediate
external wall insulation and render are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 bedrooms property age: 1930-70 please call to appoint
Cheddar - BS27
Enquiry from: Charlotte G
Start Date: Immediate
rendering on external wall has fallen off by a window and a few holes and chips need filling. the house also needs repainting. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi det...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2024 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceHow To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
Are you considering converting your garage into a more usable space in your home? If yes, then you’d probably want to know if you’ll require building regs before converting the garage. The answer to this question is yes. Although you may not require planning approval to convert your garage into a more usable space, but you’d usually need approval under the Building Regulations.
When re-structuring your garage into a habitable space, the following should be taken into consideration: structural alterations, ventilation, moisture proofing, insulation, fireproofing, escape routes as well as the submission of a building building notice or full plan application to the local council in order to inform them about the planned project.
• Walls
You’ll require an approval if you plan to infill the garage door with a window and a new wall. This is because the garage may have been built of a shallow slab which implies that a new foundation would be needed for the new wall construction.
• Floor
Even though there’s a high possibility that the garage floor is strong enough for domestic use since its designed to withstand the weight of vehicles, you may however need to upgrade to make sure it suitable for both thermal insulation and damp proofing. In addition, there may also be the need to to alter the floor level in such a way that it matches that of the remaining parts of the house.
• Ventilation
According to the Building Regulations requirements, there’s a need for adequate ventilation for each individual rooms which includes garage conversions for general health purposes. What’s going to determine the ventilation level that’ll be required is the frequency at which the room is used. Ventilation can be provided through purge or simply opening the window or via trickle ventilation.
Are you about to start a new construction job when it’s a heavily rainy period? Or perhaps you’re just interested in knowing how bricklayers work. Well regardless of your purpose, one thing you should know is laying of bricks has a few rules and one of them is not to lay a brick wall when its raining. This is mainly because your structure’s quality and integrity would be heavily compromised if water comes in contact with the mortar before it gets the time to dry. However, with the help of a concrete protective tent, you can prevent water from coming in contact and damaging the mortar. So let’s look at the procedures to follow to work in the rain!
lDetermine The Concrete Protective Tents Required
• Concrete protective tents come in various sizes so you have to know what’s required to get the job done.
• Firstly, calculate the amount of space required to lay the brick wall
• Then, incorporate the appropriate size and number of tents.
lSet Up The Tents
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to set up the tents
• Once installed, the tent should extend past the location for the bricklaying and slope downwards.
l Access The Area
• Inspect the location during rainfall to ensure water is not sneaking through.
lBuild a Lumber Frame
• Use 2 to 4 pieces of lumber to build a frame.
• Set it into the ground depending on the size of your wall
lApply Concrete or Mortar
• Fill up the frame with either concrete or mortar.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to allow the mixture to cure.
lPrepare the Brick Wall’s Mortar
• Mix the mortar for the brick wall construction
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction for the process.
When you’re done laying the bricks, you can remove the protective tents once you’re certain the rain has stopped. Exposure to sun and air will speed up the curing process, which is quite important to protect the integrity of your structure.
Over the years there has been an increase in the recommended thickness of loft insulation by the government. Obviously, the reason behind this is pretty simply - the thicker the layer of your loft insulation the bigger your savings. The UK government is very keen to every house in the country to have loft insulation fitted where possible as it helps to minimize the heating demands of these properties. Households get to benefit from loft insulation in so many ways which includes reduced energy energy bills as well as having a home that stays at a more comfortable temperature for longer.
Generally, for the government energy efficiency is crucial as it implies that the highest demand ( which is usually the time of the day when gas or electricity use is at its peak ) reduces, since each building requires slightly less energy. Overall, that ultimately implies that new power plants don’t have to be built which is some nice cost savings for the government.
In the 1980’s, any thickness of loft insulation from 25 mm to 50 mm was considered the standard. But then, building regulations stated that homes should have as much as 100 mm of loft insulation. Over time, this gradually increased to 270mm for new builds and also recommended for other properties, although not essential. As a result of this, there’s always a need to check how much insulation you currently have in your loft before you decide to purchase more. You may discover that you already have something within the range of 20 mm to 200 mm up there and knowing this and the insulation values will assist in determining how much more you’ll need to purchase, if any at all. You should also note that some modern materials can offer the same thermal insulation whilst not being as thick.
There is a variety of methods available to ensure that your paving drains properly, for example draining into a lawn or soakaway. Correct drainage of paving is a requirement for planning permission. See our guide on planning permission for paving for more information.
If you’re considering converting a barn or buying one, you shouldn’t need to worry about it being cold. This is because building regulations dictate that when you convert a barn, you need to insulate it to meet specific standards. However, it’s worth considering its heating system and ceiling heights carefully – some barn conversions are likely to take longer and be more expensive to heat up than others.
No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.
As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.
In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.
If you’re having issues with the amount of space in your home and need an extra space without affecting your garden, loft conversion comes to mind. Not only is it a great solution to creating more living space within a home, but it’s also one of the most budget-friendly solutions you can count on to expand your space by thinking upwards rather than sideways. So if you’re thinking about converting your loft, one thing that almost immediately comes to mind is whether or not your house is suitable for loft conversion.
To answer the question of whether every house can have a loft conversion is a very simple one. Generally, not every house is suitable for loft conversion. This is due to the fact that each and every loft space - from the stairways below and floors to the rafters and the roof up above, is unique. Therefore, the best way to really figure out whether or not a house’s loft offers the potential for conversion is to get in touch with a loft specialist.
So what can make a house not suitable for a loft conversion? Let’s take a closer look!
✓ A house will not be suitable for a loft conversion if the height of the ceiling happens to be too low and it’ll not be possible to have it raised.
✓ If you do not own own the freehold to the loft space, you won’t be able to convert the loft. Surprisingly, this happens to be a common issue in London.
✓ You will not be able to convert your loft if you reside in a conservation area or in a listed building. But you can identify a design solution that’ll still comply with the conservation rules and keep planners happy.
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