Conversion | Loft
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Lisa W
Start Date: Immediate
Loft conversion and hatch
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Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Lisa W
Start Date: Immediate
Loft conversion and hatch
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Eric G
Start Date: Immediate
Extra loft insulation laid on top of other insulation
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Richard M
Start Date: Immediate
extend existing gate piers approx 1m height on each using reclaimed bricks. bricks are on site. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how much work would you say ...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Colin B
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation to existing rear extension built in the 1970s. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 property age: 1970-20...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Colin B
Start Date: Immediate
customer made an enquiry for loft & roof insulation and confirmed on the quotatis site they would like quotes from a builder.mr lives in the ludlow area and would like a call to discuss options.see be...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Colin B
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation to existing rear extension built in the 1970s. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 property age: 1970-20...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Adam C
Start Date: Immediate
Roof insulation quote. Unsure on square footage but 3 gables.
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Joe F
Start Date: Immediate
covert half of existing brick built garage into a hobby work room. need stud wall and plasterboard ceiling to be included. are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: single gar...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Christopher J
Start Date: Immediate
Log burner flue swept as required
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Angela T
Start Date: Immediate
Call any-time New build or replacement: New build Quote requested on a porch, in PVCu, to be supplied and fitted.
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Charles R
Start Date: Immediate
are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 do you require a top up: yes age of property: 1930-70 are you interested in cavity wall in...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Charles R
Start Date: Immediate
loft insulation cavity wall on a 3 bed bungalow are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 do you currently have loft insulationn: ye...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: ANN B
Start Date: Immediate
are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached other forms: building maintenance agreed to receive quotes for selected products: yes please call to appoint
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: David H
Start Date: Immediate
repair and replace storm damaged driveway approx 100 meters long plus area outside of house Time scale: Immediate Please call to appoint
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Mark S
Start Date: Immediate
we have a 5.7 x 3.5 meter suspended floor over a garage and want to insulate it it can be accessed from above or below in the garage
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Elaine F
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Homeowner Please contact to appoint Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Do you have a: Single Garage What will the space be used for: Studio Do you require Plumbing Work: Yes Do you r...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Deirdre P
Start Date: Immediate
What level of service do you require: Install only Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Bedrooms Property Age: Pre 1900 Doe...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Lynne C
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
I am looking to convert the single, attached flat roof garage of a house into a kitchen diner the area is approximately 6.6m x 3.7m. There is currently no heating to the area so the wet system woul...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Helen A
Start Date: Less than one month
Extension to bungalow Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Looking For: Single storey extension Do you have planning permission: No Do you have plans drawn up: No Do you require Plumbing ...
Ludlow - SY8
Enquiry from: Helen A
Start Date: Less than one month
Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Looking For: Si...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceDid you try rendering a wall but it doesn’t turn out the way you would have hoped for? Or perhaps you’ve been watching your wall render gradually deteriorate over time. Regard of your purpose, learning how to repair render cracks on wall is usually a great skill to have with your home maintenance in mind. However, whenever these crack are too large or difficult, we’d recommend you call in a reliable professional who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the wall render repairing process. Let’s have a look!
No matter how solid a building material is, over time it’ll yield to the elements. When it comes to wall rendering it may be a case of too much sunshine or a costly mistake in the application process, but in truth, it cracks just because it cracks.
In order to repair render cracks, you’d have to start with a removal of damaged or cracked render. You’ll have to remove all the render or just a small section depending on the area you’re working on. If you’re able to clean all of the existing render as well as the paint over it all (both old and new), then removing a small section would work better as it makes it look neat and redone. Upon the removal of the existing render, the next important step would be to remove all loose material as well. Once done, you can then leave for up to 2 days to allow any trapped moisture to come out. Unfortunately, if the rains you’d have to wait till that dries too before you proceed.
Once dried, you can buy a pre-prepared render mix which already contains cement, lime and sand. Mix a 20kg bag with 4 litres of water (or check the product instructions and follow strictly), the mix to a fine consistency. Render is quick to dry, so you’d want to apply within 30 minutes of mixing. Make use of a trowel to apply the render on the affected spots and blend with the surrounding area.
No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.
As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.
In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.
The short and simple answer to this question is yes, loft insulation does cause condensation. Over the years, problems with condensation in loft spaces have become increasingly common. While this may not be harmful in anyway, when the condensation becomes excessive it can lead to more serious issues taking root in your loft like wet rot, dry rot as well as black spot mould. Generally, the best thing to do if you’re concerned about the condensation in your loft space and that it may rapidly become a bigger problem is to get in touch with a damp specialist as soon as possible.
Even though insulating your loft space comes with a wide array of benefits like making the top floor rooms warmer, it’s however comes at the cost of making your loft or room space cooler. Condensation in lofts take place primarily due to the humid air making its way through insulation or other gaps into the loft space and touching a cooler surface which in turn results in beads of moisture on the timbers, lintels as well as the underside of the roof. This is why its always a great idea make use of thermal insulation with a vapour barrier that’s installed on the warmer side of the insulating material.
Condensation in loft is caused by excess moisture in the air and lack of adequate air ventilation. Here are some top reasons that gives rise to this in the loft:
How To Lay Loft Boards
Do you need more storage space in your home or property? If you live in a tiny space especially where extensions can’t be made sideways, why not look to the topmost area of your home and consider boarding out your loft to make it usable?
Boarding your loft can make for a fairly easy DIY project but like every other home improvement tasks, it requires some specific skill sets as well as knowledge for a successful construction. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional in order to guarantee the best possible outcome, especially if you lack proper training or experience that’ll help you avoid some costly mistakes. Here, we’ll give you a good insight into the loft board laying procedures.
• Get The Right Tools & Equipment
The materials and supplies you’ll need to lay loft boards include loft boards, screws, tape measure and pencil, drill, hammer, saw, protective gear such as gloves and dust mask.
• Work Out The Area
Measure up the area you need the boards to cover. The standard loft features two different sizes (both are 18mm thick) which include 2400mm x 600mm and 1220mm x 320mm. You should ensure that the board you opt for fits through the loft hatch perfectly.
• Start Laying
Once you’re done working out the area, the next step is to put on your protective gear and start putting the boards in place. You should lay the boards in a staggered pattern so as to give a better strength. While doing this, watch out for any wire running through your loft so they don’t get trapped, you should also cut the boards for easy access to the light fittings’ top.
• Make It Permanent
Upon the successful placement of the boards in a way that offer a safe area to store things and stand on, you’ll have to screw them in place. Start by drilling 2 or 5 holes along the edge of individual boards in such a way that lines up with the centre of the joist below. Once done, then you can fix them in place with screws.
A front porch is a glorious addition that would be a blessing to have in any home. It gives you a good floor space to enjoy your neighbourhood as well as your surroundings in the cool atmosphere of the outside living space. The question however is, how do you build a porch? Constructing the structure can be a very challenging task but with proper guidance and lots of practice, you can also be a skilled porch builder. To protect your investment, it’s advisable to hire the services of a professional for help with your porch especially if you lack proper training and experience. This way, you’ll get to save time and money. This guide is prepared to give you some insight into the porch building process.
lAssess Your Location
• Consider the location before proceeding with the project. It’s essential to select a location that’ll reduce the sunlight coming in.
lPlan The Materials Required For Your Porch
• You’ll have to decide the type of porch you’ll be going for. For example, your porch can be built out of wood, composite decking or if it’s going to utilize some stone flooring, brick or even tile.
lBuild Your Porch Foundation
• Dig the foundations deep to ensure stability while also putting in mind any pipework or cabling
• Fit a damp proof course
• Add the subfloor - this can be concrete or timber
lStart To Lay The Brick And Floor
• Lay the bricks evenly up to the DPC level
• Lay the floor
• Add the flooring protection
• Once done, you can lay the bricks to the window level
• You can fit in a window sill if required before proceeding the brick and block work until it reaches the roof timber’s height
• Fit the linter when you get to the top of where the window will reach.
lConstruct The Roof
• Build a timber framework
• Fit a breathable roof membrane
• Install the roof battens and lay the roof tiles.
• Add gutters
Insulating a cavity wall should not affect the damp proofing of the wall. All insulation approved for use in cavity walls has been tested to ensure that it does not allow damp to pass through the wall. Some walls which receive a lot of wind driven rain are unsuitable for cavity wall insulation.
External cladding will have an impact on a damp problem. However, it’s important that cladding is the last part of a damp treatment, as installing cladding over a damp wall will make the problem worse. Do not cut corners or try to remedy a problem with the cheapest solution, a damp proof course may need to be put in place before cladding.
This is a type of loft conversion that extends your roof on the sloping side. It is a great option to go for especially where a hipped roof effectively makes the usable floor area a lot smaller which can be a tricky affair when it comes to putting in a new staircase. Here, the roof is extended from the current ridge in such a way that it effectively fills the gap between them. As a result, this turns the hip (in a hipped roof) into a gable to create space in your roof for a loft conversion - hence the name “hip to gable.
The new gable can be done in whatever way that suits both your taste as well as your property. You can make the new gable construction in woods and then tiled to match your existing roof while you can also go for other options such as brick block pebbledash or rendering. You are also free to fit in a new window into the loft conversion end so as to allow for natural light into the loft space.
A hip to gable loft conversion is mostly found on both semi detached and end terrace buildings, particularly those constructed in the 1930s. Overall, this type of loft conversion is particularly ideal for homes that features a hipped roof and with a sloping roof at the side of the property. Some detached properties can also possess a hipped roof on the side - and as such, a double hip to gable loft conversion can also be deal as it’ll create more loft space for usage. If your home fits into the bill, then you should be aware that once the project is completed, you’ll have plenty of usable space available to both you and your loved ones.
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