Insulation | Loft / Roof
Caersws, Llandinam - SY17
Enquiry from: Sue E
Start Date: Immediate
Replace fibreglass insulation in loft
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Caersws, Llandinam - SY17
Enquiry from: Sue E
Start Date: Immediate
Replace fibreglass insulation in loft
Caersws, Llandinam - SY17
Enquiry from: Julie B
Start Date: Immediate
Small porch with low brick wall and then all pvc with tiled lean to roof
Caersws, Llandinam - SY17
Enquiry from: Stephen W
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation on a 3 bedroom bungalow are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 property age: 1930-70 are you in a conservat...
Caersws, Llandinam - SY17
Enquiry from: Mark H
Start Date: Immediate
Cavity wall insulation needed 40msqare@2-3"and 24square m@2" Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Property Age: Pre 1900 Are you...
Caersws, Llandinam - SY17
Enquiry from: Mark H
Start Date: Immediate
cavity insulation in gable end and a side wall are you the property owner: owner of the property how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 property age: pre 1900 are you in a conservation area: no please cal...
Caersws, Llandinam - SY17
Enquiry from: Margaret W
Start Date: Immediate
Our top half of house is Tudor style, want all the wood off, and rendered for maintenance free.
Caersws, Llandinam - SY17
Enquiry from: Russell C
Start Date: Immediate
Blow cellulose insulation to fill an under floor gap below hung timber floor. Gap approx one foot deep and floor size approx 4x5m Homeowner Supplied and fitted Please contact to appoint
Newtown - SY16
Enquiry from: Stephen B
Start Date: Immediate
Loft insulation throughout
Welshpool - SY21
Enquiry from: M
Start Date: Immediate
Sell 1 Times Are you the home owner of that property? yes Are you replacing an existing porch or is this a new build? Existing What material do you require, UPVC? timber What colour do you want it to...
Montgomery - SY15
Enquiry from: Simon S
Start Date: Immediate
50mm cavity wall installation quotations are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 property age: 1970-2000 are you in a conservation...
Montgomery - SY15
Enquiry from: Maia V
Start Date: Immediate
existing gravel driveway (approx. 35m long) needs widening in places, and probably top surface scraped off and replaced with new to give a surface with less mud... need this done soon as have 2 skips ...
Welshpool - SY21
Enquiry from: Ben J
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation. end of terrace property so three external walls. ideally blown beads rather than fibre. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached how many...
Welshpool - SY21
Enquiry from: Christine J
Start Date: Immediate
residence borehole request are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of work do you need to have done: other
Welshpool - SY21
Enquiry from: Tony H
Start Date: Immediate
Sound proofing to a hall as this is a terraced property and we have noise from next door
Newtown - SY16
Enquiry from: Kim C
Start Date: Immediate
216m2 of render to new and existing walls on a 6 bedroom house. the substrates are a mix of concrete, brick and cement board so we have been advised to use silicone thin coat. look forward to seeing s...
Newtown - SY16
Enquiry from: Miles W
Start Date: Immediate
i need a doorway blocking up, a new larger doorway created, double door fitted and made good. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how much work would you say nee...
Montgomery - SY15
Enquiry from: Richard A
Start Date: Immediate
dormer window plus loo and sink to be added to a bedroom are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what are you looking to convert the space into: other are you lookin...
Newtown - SY16
Enquiry from: Barry H
Start Date: Immediate
New wardrobe made or purchased and fitted
Newtown - SY16
Enquiry from: Ceri A
Start Date: Immediate
60mm cavity of pumped wall insulation covering 356 square meters are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: commercial how many bedrooms do you have: 5+ property age: unknown...
Llanbrynmair - SY19
Enquiry from: Colette J
Start Date: Immediate
replace existing half brick, half rotten wood porch. willing to consider enlarging at the right price. in upvc or wood. are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have planning permissio...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceHow To Lay Loft Boards
Do you need more storage space in your home or property? If you live in a tiny space especially where extensions can’t be made sideways, why not look to the topmost area of your home and consider boarding out your loft to make it usable?
Boarding your loft can make for a fairly easy DIY project but like every other home improvement tasks, it requires some specific skill sets as well as knowledge for a successful construction. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional in order to guarantee the best possible outcome, especially if you lack proper training or experience that’ll help you avoid some costly mistakes. Here, we’ll give you a good insight into the loft board laying procedures.
• Get The Right Tools & Equipment
The materials and supplies you’ll need to lay loft boards include loft boards, screws, tape measure and pencil, drill, hammer, saw, protective gear such as gloves and dust mask.
• Work Out The Area
Measure up the area you need the boards to cover. The standard loft features two different sizes (both are 18mm thick) which include 2400mm x 600mm and 1220mm x 320mm. You should ensure that the board you opt for fits through the loft hatch perfectly.
• Start Laying
Once you’re done working out the area, the next step is to put on your protective gear and start putting the boards in place. You should lay the boards in a staggered pattern so as to give a better strength. While doing this, watch out for any wire running through your loft so they don’t get trapped, you should also cut the boards for easy access to the light fittings’ top.
• Make It Permanent
Upon the successful placement of the boards in a way that offer a safe area to store things and stand on, you’ll have to screw them in place. Start by drilling 2 or 5 holes along the edge of individual boards in such a way that lines up with the centre of the joist below. Once done, then you can fix them in place with screws.
Fitted wardrobes are the best choice of wardrobe for most households and they’re a popular option for several homeowners for a good reason. Not only are they able to efficiently maximize your space and fit into any space no matter how awkward, but they can also be customized to fit your personal needs to feature custom lighting and many more. So if you’re planning to have one fitted but on a tight budget, you’d probably be wondering how you can install a fitted wardrobe in an alcove by yourself. This is a relatively easy task if you’re attentive to the details, however, if you’re not confident enough to pull this off, we’d advise that you get in touch with a professional who can guarantee the best results for help.
To construct a fitted wardrobe in an alcove, simply follow these steps:
✓ Take a measurement of the available space including the length, breadth and width.
✓ Sketch out what you want the wardrobe to look like while also staying within the measurements. Here, you’ll have to be particular about everything like the drawers, shelves etc.
✓ Build the frames upon which every other construction would be made.
✓ Attach the frames to the wall and floor. Make use of a hammer drill with a masonry bit to drill the holes if its a concrete floor.
✓ At this stage, you’ll have to start building your shelves in accordance to the number you’ll need.
✓ Based on the design in step 2 above, you’ll have to add the door at this stage. This is however optional as some homeowners prefer door-less wardrobes.
✓ The final step is to paint the the finished wardrobe to your taste with your choice of colour.
Have you been advised by a structural engineer or a surveyor that your building needs to be underpinned? Well, this might just have you wondering what underpinning really is and how long it lasts. In this post, we’re going to tell you more about underpinning to help you make the best-informed decision possible moving forward. Let’s take a look!
Basically, underpinning refers to the incorporation of one of various methods to reinforce or repair the old foundations of a building or structure mostly to remedy or avoid subsidence. Now, subsidence can be caused as a result of poor soil quality, increase in the load on the foundation like adding a new storey, excavations below the building as well as inadequate foundation which is more common in older buildings. When an underpinning remedial work is carried out, there are a plethora of benefits that comes with it. It’s preserves the structural integrity of your building by strengthening it, make it a lot more attractive, increases the property’s value and makes it a lot safer for both you and your loved ones. So how long does underpinning last?
Well, many underpinning contractors will offer you a 10-year guarantee of its underpinning solutions for defects. Primarily, there are two reasons why underpinning can fail which is poor installation and fresh issues arising or unforeseen circumstances. While the first is an issue that can be avoided by employing the services of an expert contractor who possesses vast experience and knowledge in the field, the second can not be avoided. However, in the absence of the unforeseen issues, underpinning is expected to last for the natural life of the building, so far it has been expertly installed.
There’s a huge range of different types of loft conversions. The most common are dormer and skylight or Velux conversions. There are also hip to gable and mansard conversions. The type of loft conversion that’s most suitable for your property will depend on the style of roof and the size of your loft.
Many types of loft are suitable for a loft conversion. In general, you will need at least 2.3 metres of headroom in your existing loft. This is to make sure there is enough headroom after the conversion. Speak to a conversion specialist about the probability and possibility of doing this in your house.
Wall rendering is basically a process which involves the application of sand, cement or polymer covering to a home’s exterior in such a way that enhances its look while also offering an improved stability. The process is a perfect solution for several exterior concerns mainly due to the support its able to provide. It’s highly beneficial for older homes whose walls may suffer from poor quality because of wear over time, while it’s also greatly advantageous for newer homes as it increases their stability while also enhancing their visual appeal.
Knowing how to apply render is a great skill to have with your home’s upkeep in mind. The project can be done quite easily by any competent and confident DIYer. However if you lack any of those attributes, then we’d recommend you get in touch with a reliable professional for help. In this article, we’ll take you through the wall rendering process.
✓ Prepare the walls. This involves examining the wall, repairing any structural defects as well as stabilizing any movements to prevent the render finish from failing.
✓ External details. This includes the removal of bargeboards, rainwater, soil pipes, alarm boxes and all other external details.
✓ Insulation. In the event whereby external wall insulation is to be fitted, this is the stage to do so.
✓ Developing a foundation for the render to fix to. Apply a render mesh over the insulation, bedded into the first base coat layer of render.
✓ Building up the render.
✓ Render finishes. There are a wide range of colour options as well as various finishes available from very smooth to textured. However, you should note that thin coat render systems are usually designed to be self coloured.
✓ Final finishes. This involves the re-application of the external rainwater, soil pipes and the other external details.
No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.
As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.
In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.
Aside from the cold weather not being the most pleasant condition to work in, the winter weather can also cause a lot of problems for construction workers and even more so when you’re working with render. Poor weather conditions can generally cause a lot of harms on the final finish of a render. Below are some of the reasons why you should not consider rendering in a bad weather.
✓ Lime bloom. Render can be impacted by lime bloom as they are subjected to damp conditions and low temperatures while curing. This is due to the fact that cement are intolerant to slower drying conditions especially immediately affect its application.
✓ Top coats can be compromised. Coating are likely to get washed off before they’re even afforded the chance to set if drying conditions are low.
However, because its cold out there doesn’t necessarily imply that work must stop. It’s very possible to render during the winter months but to avoid potential pitfalls, we’ve got some tip that can be of great help. Let’s have a look!
✓ Check the weather forecast. Determine the drying and curing time and watch the forecast for the temperature dropping at night.
✓ Select the most suitable render. There are renders that are suitable for application in low temperatures to about 5℃ or even as low as 1℃. These types of render are fast setting which makes them perfect for the cold condition.
✓ Watch out for frost. Frost and render are enemies. Therefore, it won’t be wise to work with frosted materials, on frosted subtrates or apply below the recommended temperature that’s written on the product’s datasheet.
✓ Protect the finish. Make use of artificial enclosures around the scaffolding to battle adverse weather conditions.
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