Insulation | External Wall
Edinburgh - EH15
Enquiry from: Fiona M
Start Date: Immediate
I have a lean-to conservatory, with PVC window walls, and am looking to have the roof insulated
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Edinburgh - EH15
Enquiry from: Fiona M
Start Date: Immediate
I have a lean-to conservatory, with PVC window walls, and am looking to have the roof insulated
Edinburgh - EH13
Enquiry from: Craig B
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
sound proofing my 17 square meter ceiling so my upstairs neighbours are not disturbed by dogs barking in my flat. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other how many rooms ...
Dalkeith - EH22
Enquiry from: Tony C
Start Date: Immediate
Drive way and patio need some repair and resealing.
Edinburgh - EH11
Enquiry from: Shammi S
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
customer made an enquiry for single storey house extension and confirmed on the local quotes site they would like quotes from a builder.mr lives in the edinburgh area and would like a call to discuss ...
Edinburgh - EH11
Enquiry from: Shammi S
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
customer in the edinburgh area made an enquiry a couple of projects including house extension.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you the ...
Edinburgh - EH12
Enquiry from: Anna B
Start Date: Immediate
Making a door to the upper part of my wardrobe and shelves in it.
Balerno, Currie, Edinburgh, Juniper Green - EH14
Enquiry from: Duncan M
Start Date: Immediate
Garage floor and roof insulation
Edinburgh - EH11
Enquiry from: John R
Start Date: Immediate
ceiling soundproofing in sitting room are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) property type: other how many rooms are you looking to have sounds proofed: 1 room what level of service do y...
Edinburgh - EH4
Enquiry from: JOHN B
Start Date: Immediate
The EPC survey described our cavity walls as partially insulated -- we'd like them fully insulated. The apartment is ground floor with three external walls ( total area is around 90m2), built in 198...
Milton Bridge - EH25
Enquiry from: Fernandez R
Start Date: Immediate
Extension to the kitchen. No water no cook no extractor, just an extension room with heating and a fireplace
Inveresk - EH21
Enquiry from: Panagiotis G
Start Date: Immediate
I am looking for a glass porch top to bottom with glass roof. Size 2x1.5m.groundworks and installation. No heating no electrical no plumbing drain work needed to get moved.
Edinburgh - EH7
Enquiry from: Victor C
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
hello. i've just moved to a period flat in hillside. the entrance door is very old but i would like to keep it as it has period features. however, it does let cold air in and lots of noises from the s...
Edinburgh - EH7
Enquiry from: Victor C
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
hello. i've just moved to a period flat in hillside. the entrance door is very old but i would like to keep it as it has period features. however, it does let cold air in and lots of noises from the s...
Balerno, Currie, Edinburgh, Juniper Green - EH14
Enquiry from: Aaron J
Start Date: Immediate
Cavity wall insulation to external walls for two bedroom flat. End terrace flat, so there are three elevations instead of two.
Milton Bridge - EH25
Enquiry from: Julie H
Start Date: Immediate
Large kitchen extension open plan
Edinburgh - EH4
Enquiry from: Swapnil R
Start Date: Immediate
customer made an enquiry for house extension and confirmed on the quotatis site they would like quotes from a builder.customer lives in the edinburgh area and would like a call to discuss options.see ...
Edinburgh - EH11
Enquiry from: Mauricio C
Start Date: Immediate
Hi, I am looking to place an staircase that connects to the attic. I am looking just to install the staircase just now. Please do not call me, but happy to communicate by email.
Oakbank - EH27
Enquiry from: Steven M
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
estimate to repair water damage from leaking shower seals in en-suite and bathrooms resulting in damage to ceilings plasterboard and mid floor osb. work will require removal of showers and bath, floor...
Edinburgh - EH6
Enquiry from: Johnny H
Start Date: Immediate
Modular extension to rear of semi-detached house. Full width of house approximately 5.5m and projecting into the garden 3m so it's within permitted development, for a total of ~16.5 sq m. The extensio...
Edinburgh - EH6
Enquiry from: Johnny H
Start Date: Less than one month
modular extension to rear of semi-detached house. full width of house approximately 5.5m and projecting into the garden 3m so it's within permitted development, for a total of ~16.5 sq m. the extensio...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceWhat Is Plasterboard?
The plasterboard is unarguably one of the most common building materials across the globe. Sometimes referred to as gypsum board, gyprock, drywall or wall board, the plasterboard is mostly incorporated for ceiling cladding and interior walls in several homes and offices in recent times. However, despite its global acceptability, it’s a very misunderstood building material.
The plasterboard is manufactured using a gypsum core with a heavy paper covering both sides of the sheet. The measurement of a standard plasterboard sheet is a length of 2.4 metres in and a width of 1.2 metres, with a thickness of about 13mm. The board usually have either a bevelled or a bit flat edge. The bevelled edge makes it easy for the installers to use a plaster to smooth out the surface after nailing the sheets to walls and ceilings as well as taping the edges.
The plasterboard comes in different types. Although various manufacturers provide a unique name for their products, but they’re all included in one of the following categories:
• Water Resistant Plasterboard - This type of plasterboard are best suited to be used in water areas like bathroom, laundry rooms and kitchens.
• Acoustic Plasterboard - Due to its sounding proofing qualities, this type of plasterboard is preferred to be used in home theatres or noisy areas.
• Flexible Plasterboard - This is to be incorporated on curvy surfaces.
• Fire Resistant Plasterboard - Just like the name implies, this type of plasterboard is best suited for use in high fire hazard areas.
If you’re about to kick start some small renovations around your house or office, using a plasterboard to clad your walls is a very simple and worthwhile task. However, if you want to do major renovations or need to apply plasterboard to your ceiling, the best option would be to leave it to a seasoned professional.
It shouldn’t do. Most companies will do all the interior work first, and the last job to do will be creating the opening from the house to the conversion. A reputable company will make sure they cause as little disruption as possible during this time.
Typically, loft conversions do not require planning permission except in certain situations. They’re usually covered under what’s known as Permitted Development. Certain building works like loft conversion, rear extension and conservatories are granted planning permission by local authorities. Permitted Development, however, gives you a free range to improve your home without having any issues from the councils or regulations. Before your planned loft conversion can be covered under Permitted Development, there are some certain criteria that must be met. This criteria includes the following:
✓ The extension must not go beyond the existing slope of the roof at the front of the house.
✓ The loft space converted must not go beyond 40 cubic metres in a terraced house.
✓ The roof’s height must not be increased by the extension.
✓ The loft space converted must not reach beyond 50 cubic metres in a detached or semi detached house.
✓ The plan for the extension mustn’t involve structures like balconies, verandas or anything other structures of this nature.
✓ The roof extension should be positioned as far back as possible or at least 20cm from the existing eaves.
✓ The side that faces the window openings should be at least 1.7m beyond the floor and the windows should also be obscured.
✓ The roof extension must not overhang the existing roof or wall of the house.
✓ The materials that are to be used must be similar or the same to the materials that has already been used on the house’s exterior.
However, you should bear in mind that there are some properties that are exempt from Permitted Development. Examples of these type of properties include conservation areas, Areas Of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage sites. Permitted Development does not also provide coverage for listed buildings.
The short and simple answer to this question is yes, loft insulation does cause condensation. Over the years, problems with condensation in loft spaces have become increasingly common. While this may not be harmful in anyway, when the condensation becomes excessive it can lead to more serious issues taking root in your loft like wet rot, dry rot as well as black spot mould. Generally, the best thing to do if you’re concerned about the condensation in your loft space and that it may rapidly become a bigger problem is to get in touch with a damp specialist as soon as possible.
Even though insulating your loft space comes with a wide array of benefits like making the top floor rooms warmer, it’s however comes at the cost of making your loft or room space cooler. Condensation in lofts take place primarily due to the humid air making its way through insulation or other gaps into the loft space and touching a cooler surface which in turn results in beads of moisture on the timbers, lintels as well as the underside of the roof. This is why its always a great idea make use of thermal insulation with a vapour barrier that’s installed on the warmer side of the insulating material.
Condensation in loft is caused by excess moisture in the air and lack of adequate air ventilation. Here are some top reasons that gives rise to this in the loft:
Does A Single Storey Extension Add Value To Your House?
When you’re looking to construct a single storey extension or perhaps you’re just searching for means to increase the value of your property, this question always pops up. The short and simple answer to this question is a resounding yes, a single storey extension can go a long way to increase the value of your property. Just like any other home improvement, when done right, adding a little extra living space is one of the top things you can probably think of that’ll provide a cool increase in your property’s value. However, before you rush in you must also take note of some factors so you can be certain a single storey extension is the right option for you. These factors include the quality of the build, complexity of the build, cost of the build versus the value gain, ceiling price in the area, finance costs as well as the inconveniences and stress.
Generally, the average cost of a single storey extension can range from £34,000 to £37,000. For this price, you should get a standard sized rear or side extension which also includes the cost of a kitchen - it’s the most commonly use for a single story extension especially in the UK. So it’s important to know the value they’ll add to your house before deciding to make such an investment.
The value added to your property will depend largely on the quality and size of your single storey extension. The value is usually calculated by estate agents using the number of bedrooms, bathrooms as well as the floor area. Inside London, it’ll typically be priced at £5,000 to £10,000 per square metre, while outside London should be within the range of £900 to £2,000 per square metre.
When thinking about the right insulation material for your loft, some of the first few things that comes to mind is the various properties of that material as well as how good they fit with your home’s needs.naturally, you’d like to ensure that the insulation will be efficient enough to add to the overall energy efficiency of your home, however there are also other features that may not get as much attention but also happens to be equally important. As the primary function of an insulation is to blanket your house to offer a barrier against heat loss, going for an insulation material that’s also fireproof is crucial as loft insulation can burn. Although most insulation materials are fireproof, a myriad of problems can actually make your insulation burn.
For instance, fibreglass insulation is produced using glass combined with plastic polymers and is naturally resistant to fire. However, even at that you’d have to be careful with batts that are supported with foil or paper due to the fact that these materials can burn pretty quickly. Cellulose, on the other hand, is not fireproof and is required to be treated by other flame retardants in order to help reduce combustion. Some of the best insulation materials that are resistant to fire includes the following:
No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.
As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.
In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.
With the numerous benefits that comes with the installation of an external wall insulation in a building, it’s also important to find out whether it’s also safe before proceeding to fit one in your home. Firstly, to ensure that external wall insulation systems are safe, they must be BBA approved, which means they’ve been subjected to a thorough testing by the British Board of Agrement and therefore, suitable for use in UK homes.
Given the fact that cladding materials have recently generated a lot of debate and negative press about how reliable some particular materials are, questions are being asked of the safety and reliability of external wall insulation. However we must clarify that, although external wall insulation can be classified under cladding, it is very different to rainscreen cladding - which caused the Grenfell fire tragedy.
External wall insulation is completely safe. However, when it comes to fire, the safety of your system depends largely on the insulation type in question. The safest type of insulation you can have installed is the Rockwool insulation boards which are rated as Euroclass A1 non-combustible. The board is specially designed in such a way that it contains fire - preventing it from reaching the other areas of the building. They also do not produce harmful emission or smoke when impacted by fire.
Meanwhile, the Wood Fibre, is also a great insulation which is known to char and not burn. Contrary to many beliefs, it actually burns slowly creating this charring effect which produces an oxygen barrier that helps reduce the spread of fire.
To make your system safer, you can also make use of Fibreglass Mesh for reinforcement. It helps to improve the strength of the tensile which promotes the security of the boards attached to the wall.
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