Bedroom | Fitted Wardrobe
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Perdeep S
Start Date: Immediate
Old fitted wardrobes removed. Hole in bedroom floor fixed and new fitted wardrobes installed
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Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Perdeep S
Start Date: Immediate
Old fitted wardrobes removed. Hole in bedroom floor fixed and new fitted wardrobes installed
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Euna N
Start Date: Immediate
customer in belvedere area has requested that we arrange quotes for their building maintenance project.mrs are considering various options and would like to discuss with a builder directly.please call...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Cassie R
Start Date: Immediate
We are looking to extend our current loft conversion into one of our eaves with a dormer window or something similar. The rough measurements of the space to be converted is 361w x 293d x 212h.
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Favour E
Start Date: Immediate
customer in belvedere area has requested that we arrange quotes for their new build homes project.ms are considering various options and would like to discuss with a builder directly.please call to di...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Katia M
Start Date: Immediate
loft conversion please. the area has floor, stair access and electricity. no insulation. application permission to council started by previous owner. are you the property owner: owner of the property ...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Helia A
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Need loft installation and was wondering if we could use any schemes to have it on a grant or free Time scale: 1-3 months Please call to appoint
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Karmen H
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Approx 3 x 4 bavk extension, already concreted grounds. 3 skylights and two single doors. Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Karmen H
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Terrace Looking For: Sin...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Richard M
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Homeowner Please contact to appoint Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Semi detached What are you looking to convert the space into: Bedroom/s Are you looking to have st...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Eve B
Start Date: Less than one month
Property owner House extensions Supplied and fitted Please call to appoint
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Eve B
Start Date: Less than one month
Extension to side of kitchen
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Godson A
Start Date: Immediate
To add additional loft insulation in the loft to prevent condensation in the bedrooms. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Age of Property: Unkno...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Martin B
Start Date: Immediate
Double extension to side of house. approx 8' x 25' 1st floor: Extra double bedroom (new bedroom door and windows) with En-suite (this room is next to an existing bathroom) Bathroom Extended wit...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: D
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Loft insulation Are you the property owner: Owner of the property How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Do you currently have loft insulationn: Yes Do you require a top up: Yes Age of Property: 1900-30 A...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: M O
Start Date: Immediate
Rear extention
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: David S
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the myloftconversionprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Property owner: Owner, Looking to convert into: Bedroom, Work description: I would like...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Gavin J
Start Date: Immediate
UNDERFLOOR INSULATION Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Terrace How old is your property: 51+ Years Current Source of Heating: Gas Boiler 10+years old Agreed to re...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Jacqui L
Start Date: Immediate
Old loft insulation removal and hoover up Are you the property owner: Owner of the property How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Do you currently have loft insulation: Yes Do you require a top up: N...
Belvedere - DA17
Enquiry from: Villy V
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Rear extension by 4.87m x 4.26m over the current sewerage drains Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Looking For: Single storey extension Property Type: Semi detached Do you have p...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceThis depends on the amount of insulation already present in your property. However, adding insulation has been proven to improve the energy efficiency of your home and decrease your heating bills, this is more obvious in older properties or where single glazing is still in situ.
Yes, bricklayers can work during the cold months, but it all depends on the type of work involved. For instance, residential housing maintenance works such as tuck pointing deficient mortar joints on exterior walls and columns as well as rebuilding of chimneys are best tackled during summer or simply put, the warmer months of the year. This is is mainly because the best results for these activities are achieved in the warmer months and several bricklayers will agree to this fact.
Mixing of mortar using anti-freeze technique to counter-act the effects of a cold weather can lead to white marks trailing down the brick when warmer temperatures comes knocking. As a result, even mortar mixing should be done at temperatures exceeding zero degree farenheit which will hold no serious consequences if the temperature should change to a little bit below the norms. During the winter, a good technique that can be incorporated to when mixing mortar would be to mix them in smaller quantities in a warmer environment. These small quantities will immediately be fed by the labourers to the bricklayers and in such circumstances, the mixed mortars will not be subjected to a freezing temperature for too long.
Generally, it would be very unwise to consider any bricklaying work to be done whenever the temperature jumps to a certain level which would be considered to be very inconvenient to work in. Interior works like remodelling of fireplaces can be tackled so long there is a warm space to mix the mortars while also keeping the materials at an indoor temperature. Bricklaying works that have, however, been completed during the colder months should be subjected to a very close inspection as well as looking for potential damage that can be caused to existing works as a result of the harsh weather.
Are you considering a dormer loft conversion for your home? If yes, then you’d probably want to know how much it costs. Unfortunately, due to the several variables and influencing factors, a precise answer can not be provided for all dormer loft conversions. In this article we’ll give you a vague idea of the general cost so you can set a more realistic budget and start planning.
There are three main types of loft conversion which includes the Velux, Dormer, and Mansard. Out of the three types, the dormer happens to be the most common type and possesses a small flat roofed extension with a window. The dormer loft conversion will usually cost within the range of £25,000 to £30,000.
The price for a smaller dormer loft conversion, mid range dormer loft conversion and large scale dormer loft conversion will be at £2,000 to £7,000, £10,000 to £30,000 and £40,000 to £60,000 respectively. However, you should take note that the prices given are all based on varying influencing factors such as the type of installation that is selected, the type of the rood, en suite conversion as well as other customization. Changes in price can be as a result of the materials required and the extra time per labour that’s needed to complete this home improvement project by the tradesmen employed.
Furthermore, a dormer loft conversion average cost will also depend on the type of dormer you opt for. Here is a list of the most common applications:
✓ Blind dormer loft conversion - £3,200 to £4,400
✓ Recessed dormer - £1,300 to £1,850
✓ Barrel roof dormer - £3,000 to £4,600
✓ Gable dormer - £5,500 to £7,500
✓ Hipped roof dormer - £5,600 to £6,660
✓ Pedimented dormer - £12,700 to £23,100
✓ Flat roof dormer loft conversion - £13,800 to £21,600
Over the years there has been an increase in the recommended thickness of loft insulation by the government. Obviously, the reason behind this is pretty simply - the thicker the layer of your loft insulation the bigger your savings. The UK government is very keen to every house in the country to have loft insulation fitted where possible as it helps to minimize the heating demands of these properties. Households get to benefit from loft insulation in so many ways which includes reduced energy energy bills as well as having a home that stays at a more comfortable temperature for longer.
Generally, for the government energy efficiency is crucial as it implies that the highest demand ( which is usually the time of the day when gas or electricity use is at its peak ) reduces, since each building requires slightly less energy. Overall, that ultimately implies that new power plants don’t have to be built which is some nice cost savings for the government.
In the 1980’s, any thickness of loft insulation from 25 mm to 50 mm was considered the standard. But then, building regulations stated that homes should have as much as 100 mm of loft insulation. Over time, this gradually increased to 270mm for new builds and also recommended for other properties, although not essential. As a result of this, there’s always a need to check how much insulation you currently have in your loft before you decide to purchase more. You may discover that you already have something within the range of 20 mm to 200 mm up there and knowing this and the insulation values will assist in determining how much more you’ll need to purchase, if any at all. You should also note that some modern materials can offer the same thermal insulation whilst not being as thick.
Rendering a house comes with a plethora of benefits. Not only is it able to brighten up houses that looks tired especially those with damaged brickwork or having discoloured render, but its also the final step of external wall insulation.
If you own a 3 bed house, you’ll probably want to know just how much it’ll cost to have it rendered. If yes, then you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we aim to look at the cost of rendering a house using the standard 3 bed house as an example. Firstly, it should be stated that there are numerous factors that affects the price of a rendering a house which includes the rendering type, the size of the house, the ease of access, the prep work required, whether or not scaffolding will be needed as well as your location and the quality of the contractor your hire. Out of all these factors, the most significant variables are probably the type of rendering you go for and the size of the house.
There are three types of render and the one you opt for will play a key role in the price of your 3 bed house. In this article, we’re basing our cost estimate for a 3 bed house (3 bed detached) on the size ranging from 110 per square metre to 160 per square metre. Now let’s look at the cost per square metre of each rendering type.
✓ The silicone or acrylic thin coat render is usually the most expensive option of the lot due to the fact that they’re the newest and also the best type of render. This rendering type usually costs within the range of £45 to about £75 per square metre.
✓ The monocouche modern through coloured rendering type are able to offer a decorative and waterproof finish for walls. They usually costs within the range of £35 to about £70 per square metre.
✓ Sand and cement render type is the traditional type which has been applied for several years. This rendering type usually costs within the range of £20 to about £45 per square metre.
A lot of an uninsulated property’s heat is lost through the roof and that’s even more alarming, when you realize this figure is up to a quarter of the total heat of the house. Hence, the tremendous importance of preventing this heat loss through loft insulation which will go a long way to help you against spending unnecessary thousands of pounds on heating bill as well as energy loss.
Loft insulation is an effective method to achieve the desired result, however the question is, how exactly does it work? Well, it’s time to find out!
Using either a fireplace or central heating to heat up your home, a large quantity of that heat would be lost through the roof of your home. Generally, heat rises and when it does, there’s simply no way to prevent it - it’s just science. Escaping by both the conduction and convection methods via your roof, the heat escaping through your ceiling, into the loft space and out into the open air outside can only be significantly reduced by laying loft insulation.
Generally, the added layer of insulation works by trapping the heat inside the room below the loft so as to enable the air within your house to stay warmer for longer. What’s more? The layer of insulation also keeps cold air from the outside from entering your home. As a result, you don’t have to heat your home as much in order to achieve the same temperature for each individual room. Over time, just by doing this you can potentially save hundreds pounds. Getting it installed in your home may actually seem a bit expensive at first, but it’s something that’ll eventually pay off.
How To Plasterboard A Brick Wall
Do you want to cover your brick wall with plasterboard? The key to success here is the preparation. You must ensure that brick wall is prepared well enough to receive the plasterboard. To get started, there’s the need to attach wood furring strips to the wall which serves as studs in a wood frame structure. This way, the plasterboard will be prevented from getting in touch with the brick. You can always hang pictures or any other forms of decoration in between the gap between the walls. Let’s have a look!
lAttach Furring Strips
• Get a 2 inch by 4 inch wood stud and apply a bead of construction adhesive.
• Using a masonry bit, drill a pilot hole through the wood stud’s base as well as the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the hole using a sledgehammer
• Using a construction adhesive, bind a horizontal 2 inch by 3 inch stud to the upper edge of the wall.
• Using an adhesive, bind the length of a 2 inch by 3 inch stud on its wide side.
• Use a masonry drill to drill a hole on the wood stud and 1 1/2 inches into the brick wall.
• Hit a 3 inch fluted nail through the pilot hole.
lApply Plasterboard
• Hold a plasterboard sheet against the furring strips.
• Use plasterboard screw to hold the drywall sheets in place.
• Use fibreglass to cover the joints where the two plasterboard sheets meet.
• Use a thin layer of the joint compound on the tape. Once done, screw it using a 6 inch taping knife, then allow to dry overnight.
• Use a sandpaper to smooth the joint compound.
• Use a fresh coat of the joint compound to block the holes and joints. Once done, allow the compound to dry.
• Use a light sandpaper to smooth the final coat.
Plasterboarding a brick wall is a simple task but the preparation part must be done right to protect your investment. Therefore, we’d recommend you hire the services of a skilful professional, who can guarantee the best results especially if you lack enough training and experience to carry out a DIY project.
If you’re planning on adding a house extension to your property, you’d probably be worried about whether or not your proposed extension would require a planing permission. Well, it may be relieving to know that not every house extension project would require a formal consent, and in fact, several extensions are covered by the permitted development rights. Not only can this save you a considerable amount of time especially at the project’s planning phase, but it’ll also save you money on the application fee. In the UK, single storey extensions to the house’s rear can be 3 metres deep for both semi detached houses and terraces or 8 metres deep for detached homes.
So how do you know when you’d require a planning permission for your home extension? Well, if your extension plan fits these criteria explained below, then your project is most likely going to be allowable as a permitted development.
• Extensions, which includes previous additions, must not go beyond half of the original house’s total surrounding land area.
• The main elevation, or side elevation where it fronts the highway, must not be extended forward.
• For single storeys, the rear additions must not extend more than the original house’s rear by more than 3 metres in both semi attached homes and terraces (4 metres for detached houses).
• Extensions to the side must be a single storey with a height not exceeding 4 metres and not going beyond 50% of the original house’s width.
• Extensions hat within 2 metres of a boundary should have a eaves height not more than 3 metres.
• Multi storey addition must not extend beyond the original house’s rear wall by a maximum of 3 metres or 7 metres of the boundary opposite the rear wall.
• Permitted development rights do not apply in listed buildings or designated areas.
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