Insulation | External Wall
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Andy D
Start Date: Immediate
House to be external insulated and rendered
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Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Andy D
Start Date: Immediate
House to be external insulated and rendered
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Coleen G
Start Date: Immediate
Hello, looking for a quote to render a stable block and paint the old stables and house to match. Many thanks, Coleen
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Ian M
Start Date: Less than one month
5m by 5m basement, 1.7m headroom rerquire as usable storage space are you the property owner: relative of owner property type: detached how many rooms are currently within the basement: 2 rooms how ma...
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Sultan M
Start Date: Immediate
Roof trusses of a large room in the property have been supported vertically instead of horizontally. Thereby wasting a large room that could be developed into 2 ensuite bedrooms. I would like the supp...
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Catherine J
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
two story front extension, total 46m2 footprint for both floors. customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a double storey extension to their property. are you the property ow...
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Rob N
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
plans for a single storey extension time scale: 1-3 months please call to appoint
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Stefan C
Start Date: Immediate
Supplying and fitting loft insulation
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: James W
Start Date: Immediate
We’ve built an extension with a sloped roof back up to the house and plasterers came in and boarded and skimmed the ceiling and forgot to put the insulation in !! We require some blown insulation b...
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Carol B
Start Date: Immediate
Loft insulation, moved into propererty in April, this week we realised with the change in the weather how cold it was upstairs. On inspection of loft space, there is barely any insulation.
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Keith F
Start Date: Immediate
We qualify for free insulation, and were put in touch with a company. However, they refused to install until we moved few existing boards put down in readiness by the previous owner. We did not mind t...
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Martyn H
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the myloftconversionprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: Semi detached, Property owner: Owner, Looking to convert into: Living space, Work description: roof & ...
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Iain D
Start Date: Immediate
Home Owner All old blown render to be knocked off. Full detached house Please Call to Appoint
Brigg - DN20
Enquiry from: Katerina P
Start Date: Immediate
Home Owner 2 x fitted wardrobes Immediate Please call to appoint
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceIn the event whereby you’ve got big refurbishment ideas for your house but a small budget, then you know it’s time to be a bit more creative and apply some cheap and simple tricks. The best possible way to go about this is to invest time in acquiring new skills rather than trying to save up more money to pay a pro to deliver the results you want. After all, the most significant cost when it comes to house refurbishments is usually the labour cost.
The key to making cheap tricks a lot effective in the refurbishment process is by undertaking small tasks that’ll make a huge impact. A great way to start would be by taking it one task at a time rather than rushing to complete all at once. This way, you’ll have enough time to perfect your skills before moving on to the next.
✓ Paint the interior walls. Although this is a simple task but it’ll save you a lot of money if done as a DIY project. To get started, you’d have to text colour options by painting samplex on the wall first. Once done, you can go for the one that adds warmth, dynamism as well as energy to the room.
✓ Fix up your furniture. This involves re-upholstering and refinishing any piece of furniture that appears tired or overly worn (you can leave out the ones that you do not really like or unnecessary items).
✓ Spruce up small but important items used on a daily basis. This includes spray-painting inexpensive picture frames, recovering lampshades with a vibrant paper or patterned fabric, adding throw pillows to armchairs and couches and the likes.
✓ Fix all small things that are broken. This includes activities like patching the nail holes in the wall, repairing the latch on the kitchen cabinet, fixing the gutter, putting a new handle on the door and lots more.
Cladding comes in a range of styles, such as flush, shiplap, and featheredge. Many types of cladding are also available in a variety of colours to suit any property. A cladding specialist will be able to discuss what solution is best for your property and how it works.
What Is Plasterboard?
The plasterboard is unarguably one of the most common building materials across the globe. Sometimes referred to as gypsum board, gyprock, drywall or wall board, the plasterboard is mostly incorporated for ceiling cladding and interior walls in several homes and offices in recent times. However, despite its global acceptability, it’s a very misunderstood building material.
The plasterboard is manufactured using a gypsum core with a heavy paper covering both sides of the sheet. The measurement of a standard plasterboard sheet is a length of 2.4 metres in and a width of 1.2 metres, with a thickness of about 13mm. The board usually have either a bevelled or a bit flat edge. The bevelled edge makes it easy for the installers to use a plaster to smooth out the surface after nailing the sheets to walls and ceilings as well as taping the edges.
The plasterboard comes in different types. Although various manufacturers provide a unique name for their products, but they’re all included in one of the following categories:
• Water Resistant Plasterboard - This type of plasterboard are best suited to be used in water areas like bathroom, laundry rooms and kitchens.
• Acoustic Plasterboard - Due to its sounding proofing qualities, this type of plasterboard is preferred to be used in home theatres or noisy areas.
• Flexible Plasterboard - This is to be incorporated on curvy surfaces.
• Fire Resistant Plasterboard - Just like the name implies, this type of plasterboard is best suited for use in high fire hazard areas.
If you’re about to kick start some small renovations around your house or office, using a plasterboard to clad your walls is a very simple and worthwhile task. However, if you want to do major renovations or need to apply plasterboard to your ceiling, the best option would be to leave it to a seasoned professional.
When it comes to laying of bricks, it is essential to get the right mortar mix. It is vital, be it for construction or maintenance projects, so far mortar is required. There are several materials incorporated in getting mortar which includes both cement and sharp sand, soft sand or plasterer’s sand and lots more. Here, we are going to look at the right ratio for cement and sand mix in bricklaying.
Cement include ingredients such as iron, aluminium, as well as silicon and it is mainly used for mortars like aerated cement mortar, Portland cement mortar and gauged mortar. Sand, on the other hand, comes in different forms such as sharp sand, soft sand and plasterer’s sand. The sharp sand consists of a larger grain size than the others and is usually incorporated in the construction areas that requires more strength as well as flexibility. Soft sand is the most common one used in mortar and it’s also referred to as bricklayers’ sand. These are used to make all types of mortar. Finally the plasterer’s sand which neither has the sharp sand’s coarseness nor the fineness of the soft sand, but can also be used for any form of mortar.
Cement and sand mortar is used for a plethora of bricklaying jobs serving as a glue for bricks, walls and pillars, while also repairing or maintaining old listed buildings. The preferred ratio here is 1:3 to 1:5 of cement and building sand. Meanwhile, to get a sand cement mix, essential materials that are required includes water, soft building sand as well as cement. However, you must also note that a sand and cement mortar is not used for structural projects, rather a concrete ratio is used.
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
This is a type of loft conversion that extends your roof on the sloping side. It is a great option to go for especially where a hipped roof effectively makes the usable floor area a lot smaller which can be a tricky affair when it comes to putting in a new staircase. Here, the roof is extended from the current ridge in such a way that it effectively fills the gap between them. As a result, this turns the hip (in a hipped roof) into a gable to create space in your roof for a loft conversion - hence the name “hip to gable.
The new gable can be done in whatever way that suits both your taste as well as your property. You can make the new gable construction in woods and then tiled to match your existing roof while you can also go for other options such as brick block pebbledash or rendering. You are also free to fit in a new window into the loft conversion end so as to allow for natural light into the loft space.
A hip to gable loft conversion is mostly found on both semi detached and end terrace buildings, particularly those constructed in the 1930s. Overall, this type of loft conversion is particularly ideal for homes that features a hipped roof and with a sloping roof at the side of the property. Some detached properties can also possess a hipped roof on the side - and as such, a double hip to gable loft conversion can also be deal as it’ll create more loft space for usage. If your home fits into the bill, then you should be aware that once the project is completed, you’ll have plenty of usable space available to both you and your loved ones.
Generally, a paved driveway is always subjected to regular usage and yours isn’t likely to be an exception, otherwise you won’t be here. Regular usage automatically necessitates regular maintenance of the driveway in order to extend its lifespan, make your property safer and add more value to it. This maintenance will involve a frequent inspection of the paved driveway so as to identify and repair divots, cracks as well as rutting. Paved driveways usually have a lifespan ranging between 15 to 20 years, but this can only be guaranteed when backed by regular maintenance activities. Failure to provide your paved driveway with a regular maintenance will lead to a rapid deterioration within just a couple of years after installation.
The issues commonly faced by paved driveways is usually different based on several factors such as the weather, your location, your property’s sub base as well as some other elements. The ability to identify the problems and solve or repair them on time is key to success while it’s also save you some time and money. In this article we’re going to look at how to go about do-it-yourself tasks that involves minor cracks. More intense damages are advised to be handled only by professionals.
✓ Prepare the area. Clear the debris, weed the plants or vegetation (if any).
✓ Use a strong spray from a garden hose to wash clean the cracks
✓ In the event whereby the crack is deep, simply fill it until it reach about a quarter inch of the surface with sand.
✓ Tamp down the sand to make it more compact.
✓ Apply a patching compound to the surface of the cracked paved driveway.
✓ Leave it for some time to cure.
✓ Once cured, you can then apply your sealant.
This depends on the amount of insulation already present in your property. However, adding insulation has been proven to improve the energy efficiency of your home and decrease your heating bills, this is more obvious in older properties or where single glazing is still in situ.
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