Insulation | Cavity Wall
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Kevin M
Start Date: Immediate
Cavity wall insulation and under floor insulation
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Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Kevin M
Start Date: Immediate
Cavity wall insulation and under floor insulation
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Susanne H
Start Date: Immediate
Replace regular tiled roof of my bungalow with corrugated metal roof to assure no leaks! Can a corrugated roof be insulated for warmth?
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Jackson H
Start Date: Immediate
we have a floored attic , which has a boarded roof below the main house roof. the flooring does not extend on either side to the width of the house, therefore this leaves large areas without floorin...
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Jackson H
Start Date: Immediate
loft insulation. . particularly in the eves. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 do you currently have loft insulationn: no ...
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Patricia W
Start Date: Immediate
porch over front door glas and wood are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have planning permission: no what material are you looking for: upvc what material would you like the roof ...
Dingwall - IV16
Enquiry from: Fm U
Start Date: Immediate
looking for a quote to put in dormer windows on a farmstead tiled roof, extending over 3 rooms. please only contact via email. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: terrace ...
Dingwall - IV7
Enquiry from: Kath R
Start Date: Immediate
buy loft insulation and lay it are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 do you currently have loft insulationn: yes do you require a...
Dingwall - IV7
Enquiry from: Grahame M
Start Date: Immediate
customer made an enquiry for loft & roof insulation and confirmed on the quotatis site they would like quotes from a builder.dr lives in the dingwall area and would like a call to discuss options.see ...
Dingwall - IV7
Enquiry from: Grahame M
Start Date: Immediate
quote for cavity wall and roof insulation please are you the property owner: owner of the property how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 property age: 1970-2000 are you in a conservation area: no are you...
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Kevin M
Start Date: Immediate
Extension on to kitchen around 10 m sq
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Caroline T
Start Date: Immediate
to add 150mmm of loft insulation. already have 150mm. are you the property owner: tenant (with permission) are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached how many bedro...
Dingwall - IV7
Enquiry from: David A
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
grass seeding around 2000m2, cutting back edges (gorse/mixed weeds/shrubs/bushes/trees), tidying weed-filled ditches on 4 sides. time scale: 1-3 months please call to appoint
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: John R
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
wall, paving and etc maintenance Time scale: 1-3 months Please call to appoint
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Karen F
Start Date: Immediate
a single detatched garage including clearing the ground and laying founds.
Dingwall - IV16
Enquiry from: Barry B
Start Date: Immediate
Cost of 4m X 6m extension. Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Typ...
Dingwall - IV16
Enquiry from: Barry B
Start Date: Immediate
Customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a Single storey extension to their property. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Looking For: Si...
Dingwall - IV7
Enquiry from: Brian M
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Home Owner Supplied and Fitted Call to Appoint
Dingwall - IV7
Enquiry from: Gordon R
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Conversion of loft with access from adjacent 1st floor room to games room. Approx. 8 metre x 2.9 metre floor area, coombe ceiling max height 2.1 metre, dwarf wall height 1.2 metre ( include with and w...
Dingwall - IV15
Enquiry from: Cathy S
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
advice on re-structuring rooms, solar panels, addition of sunroom in the future
Dingwall - IV7
Enquiry from: Anne M
Start Date: Immediate
Single garage
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceGenerally, a paved driveway is always subjected to regular usage and yours isn’t likely to be an exception, otherwise you won’t be here. Regular usage automatically necessitates regular maintenance of the driveway in order to extend its lifespan, make your property safer and add more value to it. This maintenance will involve a frequent inspection of the paved driveway so as to identify and repair divots, cracks as well as rutting. Paved driveways usually have a lifespan ranging between 15 to 20 years, but this can only be guaranteed when backed by regular maintenance activities. Failure to provide your paved driveway with a regular maintenance will lead to a rapid deterioration within just a couple of years after installation.
The issues commonly faced by paved driveways is usually different based on several factors such as the weather, your location, your property’s sub base as well as some other elements. The ability to identify the problems and solve or repair them on time is key to success while it’s also save you some time and money. In this article we’re going to look at how to go about do-it-yourself tasks that involves minor cracks. More intense damages are advised to be handled only by professionals.
✓ Prepare the area. Clear the debris, weed the plants or vegetation (if any).
✓ Use a strong spray from a garden hose to wash clean the cracks
✓ In the event whereby the crack is deep, simply fill it until it reach about a quarter inch of the surface with sand.
✓ Tamp down the sand to make it more compact.
✓ Apply a patching compound to the surface of the cracked paved driveway.
✓ Leave it for some time to cure.
✓ Once cured, you can then apply your sealant.
This is an individual who is trained in the art of working with concrete blocks or bricks, clay bricks as well as other kinds of mortar building materials. In a combination of these materials and good bricklaying skills, a bricklayer can build and repair veneer as well as full brick construction, arches, partitions and other structures.
Contrary to many beliefs, a bricklayer actually does more than laying of bricks. There’s more to being a bricklayer than you can probably think of. A single bricklaying projects requires a wide array of skills. Let’s have a look at these skills!
• Using damp resistant materials to seal foundations.
• Spreading mortar between joints and applying them to serve as a thick layer binding the bricks together in rows.
• Reading and working from specifications as well as plans.
• Working with brick-cutting machines.
• Taking charge and caring for cement blocks or bricks, clay bricks and the likes.
• Construction of scaffolding - subject to possession of some licenses in some states.
A bricklayer mostly works outdoors, in the field and may also work at heights. Depending on the job, a bricklayer can work as part of a team or be in contact with the public. They are mostly recruited by building and construction companies and bricklaying sub contractors. However, they can also set up their own private construction firm or become a self employed tradesperson.
A bricklaying qualification is one of just two construction trades which can continue to become a registered builder. And regardless of the form a bricklaying employment takes, there are certain qualities that makes a really good bricklayer. These includes:
• Ability to work at heights and outdoors
• Enjoy practical work
• Technical aptitude
• Good hand-eye coordination
• Independent and yet a team player too
• Top physical fitness
• Attitude and attendance.
Generally, extensions can be a very tricky undertaking - where it can be quite difficult to have a clear comprehension of the rules, regulations as well as costs. Therefore before you rush in to kick start your ground floor extension project, it’ll be wise to get a good grip on the cost. In this article, we’re going to give you a rough estimate of the cost of a ground floor extension. Let’s take a look!
Just like several other home improvement projects, the cost of constructing a ground floor extension is based on a number of things which includes the size, materials used, your location, the quality of the tradesmen or company hired and lots more. For instance, if you happen to reside in London, the cost of your ground floor extension is going to be a lot higher than the other regions.
The single cost of a ground floor extension should fall within the range of £1,500 per square metre to about £2,000 per square metre. However, if you happen to live in London or the South East, this price can reach up to £1,900 per square metre to about £2,400 per square metre. These prices are for good quality ground floor extensions only. Basic or low quality extensions would naturally cost less while superior quality extension will cost more.
Now looking at the size of the ground floor extension, if you’re looking for a size of about 5m x 5m, you can expect to pay a price within the range of £32,000 to about £36,000. And as usual, in London or the South East, this price can reach up to £50,000 or even more. And that’s just for constructing the extension. If the other relevant costs like the 10 percent to 15 percent professional fees for the architect, planning application (if needed), building regulations and more, the price goes up.
No matter how big or small a building is, it can only be as good as it’s foundation - and that’s a fact! It all starts from the footing and when it isn’t deep enough, unlike badly installed gutters or gapped hardwood flooring, can make the whole building collapse to the ground. Just like any code recommendations, the depth of the footings of your porch is a parameter that must be complied with and adjusted to suit your local code requirements.
As a rule of thumb, you should always dig below the frost line when excavating your footings. At this depth level, the moisture present in the soil will be frozen. Ultimately, this will help the ground to act as a barrier to insulate the soil below the footing from freezing during the cold months. As a result, in regions where the weather is almost always very cold the depth of your footings is expected to be at least 48 inches. But in areas featuring a warm climate, you may be allowed to install your footings on grade.
In addition, it’s compulsory that your footings must be installed at a minimum depth of 12 inches below unsettled soil. However, if you’re constructing the structure into a steep hill’s side or by the side of a retaining wall, it’s required that you maintain the least distance to grade both vertically and laterally. In the event whereby you need to achieve a good lateral barrier, you’ll need to have your foundation dug a lot deeper compared to if it’s on a flat surface. For a more accurate and updated information, you can consult your local building inspection department to get familiar with the requirements in your area.
Many types of loft are suitable for a loft conversion. In general, you will need at least 2.3 metres of headroom in your existing loft. This is to make sure there is enough headroom after the conversion. Speak to a conversion specialist about the probability and possibility of doing this in your house.
The importance of underpinning a house cannot be overemphasized. Firstly, what is underpinning? Well, underpinning is simply the act of reinforcing, repairing, strengthening or improving the depth of an existing foundation by lowering the footing to ensure that it rests more on more reliable and supportive soil. Not only does this method help to strengthen your building and preserve its structural integrity, but it also does increase your property’s value and gives you peace of mind knowing your property is safe. If you’re thinking about underpinning your house, you have two options – do it yourself or call in a reputable structural engineer. The latter is more advisable as the method involves a lot of specialized knowledge, skills and tools to guarantee a successful outcome. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process involved in underpinning a house. Let’s take a look!
To get started, you should know that concrete underpinning features excavating pier footings around the building at about 2 to 3 metres distance between each other. In some cases, underpins can be installed from within the house. The footings of the underpin should go very deep into the underlying soil in such a way that fully supports the weight of the building or structure. Once done, now proceed to attaching the new footing to the building. You can achieve this by excavating underneath the existing footing to make for a stronger prop. Individual prop and pier arrangement is then strengthened using strong steel bars. Once completed, the concrete is then poured.
A professional underpinning contractor will make sure there’s sufficient space left between the existing footings and the new underpins as this space will ensure that the new underpins can be easily used to jack up the house and level it once the poured concrete cures.
How To Fit Plasterboard
If you’re planning to renovate your house, then here is a must-read guide! Fitting of plasterboard is a crucial step when it comes to renovation. If you’re bringing down an existing lath and plaster for an upgraded surface or adding a new wall, a plasterboard is required for your project to be a true success. If you’re a novice with no prior practice or experience, you can protect your investment by hiring the services of a professional plasterer to guarantee the best results, the first time. However, we’ve put together this guide to give you an insight on how the plasterboard fitting process is done.
To get started, you’ll need a power drill, hammer, plasterboard nails or screws, broad knife, utility knife, measurement tape, pencil, ladder as well as a joint tape.
Before proceeding, you need to identify the number of plasterboard sheets needed to commence the project by measuring the height and width of the wall as well as calculating the square footage. If you possess a stud timber wall, the steps below will get you the best results.
• Measure the walls and mark the plasterboard where you’ll make the cuts. Start with a full sheet and cut pieces down in such a way that would fit
• Score the front paper of the plasterboard with utility knife. Fold the sheet to get a clean cut through the board and make use of the knife to the remaining paper.
• Place the first sheet against the wall and use an offcut to prevent the plasterboard from touch the floor.
• Make the plasterboard rest snugly against the wall in position and screw it firmly on each stud. Once done, fasten it at all the sheets’ edges and in a line down the stud to make for a firm connection. Follow the same process for the remaining plasterboard sheet till the wall is fully covered.
Some individuals who have been in the construction department for many years may not be qualified, that is, they may not have undergone an apprenticeship and/or trade certificate courses, but they might still be very skilled at their work. However, anybody can pick up a sledgehammer and demand themselves a builder lacking any skills or training. The wise thing would be to ask the builder coming to your house about what qualifications they have and what training they have undergone.
Licensing of building practitioners
You can now check if your builder or tradesperson is a licensed building practitioner by using an electronic public register which has a record of every registered builder. Being licensed provides you with an assurance that the builder who is about to do your work has proven his shill to the government and earned his right to be a practitioner. If you wish for certain important building and design work on your home it is imperative that you hire a licensed practitioner, the act is very common when you compare the scenario with when you have to call a plumber or an electrician regarding any work.
In order to become a builder in the UK, you must complete an apprenticeship or an NVQ. NVQ is another popular route to becoming a builder. You can also get your NVQ even when you are working as an apprentice. You can also make it based on any recognised overseas qualification.
All associates maintain a Code of Practice and Conduct which sets the standards for all stages of the building procedure. The Code requires builders to:
• Submit quotes on projects for which they have time.
• Securing the contract with a sufficient insurance cover.
• Maintain honesty and integrity at all times.
• Obey the law and industry standards of conduct.
All members of the construction association must also follow a code of conduct. As a consumer, if you think your builder has breached the Code of Conduct or the Code of Ethics, you can file a written against him or her.
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