Insulation | CERO Free
Y Felinheli - LL56
Enquiry from: Ian W
Start Date: Immediate
external wall insulation and rendering to 3 bedroom end of terrace house. time scale: less than one month please call to appoint time scale: immediate
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Y Felinheli - LL56
Enquiry from: Ian W
Start Date: Immediate
external wall insulation and rendering to 3 bedroom end of terrace house. time scale: less than one month please call to appoint time scale: immediate
Y Felinheli - LL56
Enquiry from: Ian G
Start Date: Immediate
decorating fencing/wall terrace painting/weather shield masonry on rear terrace steps
Y Felinheli - LL56
Enquiry from: H J
Start Date: 3+ months
Extension quotes
Y Felinheli - LL56
Enquiry from: Yvonne J
Start Date: Immediate
Old badly fitted wardrobe , doors coming off the rails. Thinking of replacing the whole thing depending on price. Thanks. Are you the property owner: Owner of the property How many bedrooms do you ha...
Y Felinheli - LL56
Enquiry from: Carolyn C
Start Date: Immediate
Home owner Cavity wall insulation and loft insulation Please call to appoint *
Caernarfon - LL54
Enquiry from: Derek S
Start Date: Immediate
Re-render parts of wall where heavy rain this passed winter has damaged
Menai Bridge - LL59
Enquiry from: Simon G
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
digging out a space for car at side of garage probably needs structural work, and drainage are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached what type of work do you need to ha...
Caernarfon - LL55
Enquiry from: Andrew W
Start Date: Immediate
Grey upvc external wall cladding quotes
Menai Bridge - LL59
Enquiry from: Rhun G
Start Date: Immediate
cladding front wall of two houses using durasid type product
Caernarfon - LL54
Enquiry from: Gwyn H
Start Date: Immediate
Sound-proofing in one bedroom.
Llangefni - LL77
Enquiry from: Mark H
Start Date: Immediate
flat roof dormer window on a bungalow
Llanfairpwllgwyngyll - LL61
Enquiry from: Chloe T
Start Date: Immediate
roof lift is required, with possibility of creating space for a master bedroom, ensuite, wardrobe room and another addict bedroom. plus storage spaces for eaves to keep current attic possessions. s...
Llanfairpwllgwyngyll - LL61
Enquiry from: Jenny C
Start Date: Immediate
hi, my husband and i own a bungalow in llanfairpwllgwyngyll, anglesey. we have an existing partial attic conversion, small and with space saver stairs that don’t meet building regs. it does however ...
Beaumaris - LL58
Enquiry from: Jennifer C
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation in above bungalow
Beaumaris - LL58
Enquiry from: Jennifer C
Start Date: Immediate
insulation of cavity wall to bungalow are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 property age: 1970-2000 are you in a conservation ar...
Caernarfon - LL55
Enquiry from: Pamela B
Start Date: Immediate
Lean 2 wRm roof and new french doors! New lead, and gutter around the conservatory please. Caernarfon. Gwynedd. Ready yo go asap
Llangefni - LL77
Enquiry from: Glenys J
Start Date: Immediate
Semi detached property, we are replastering the front of our poroperty and realise we need cavity wall insulation , would like a quote please.
Beaumaris - LL58
Enquiry from: John S
Start Date: Immediate
installation of cavity wall are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 property age: 1970-2000 are you in a conservation area: no ple...
Llanfairpwllgwyngyll - LL61
Enquiry from: Fred E
Start Date: Less than one month
insulation of property to meet current heat loss regulations utilising the ofgem scheme for free installation time scale: less than one month please call to appoint
Llanfairfechan - LL33
Enquiry from: Susan L
Start Date: Immediate
Customer visited the myroofingquotes.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. Property type: House, Roof type: Flat, Work description: Two adjoining flat roofs for two semi detached houses
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2024 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceMany types of loft are suitable for a loft conversion. In general, you will need at least 2.3 metres of headroom in your existing loft. This is to make sure there is enough headroom after the conversion. Speak to a conversion specialist about the probability and possibility of doing this in your house.
If you’ve converted a non-residential barn into a home, you might be able to reclaim some of the VAT that you’ve paid for your project. This includes money spent on:
• Construction materials
• Flooring
• Light fittings
• Kitchen units and worktops
• Electrical, heating and plumbing materials
To reclaim your VAT from HMRC, make sure you request and keep all of your invoices. You’ll also need proof of planning permission and evidence of completion. You should then submit your claim with all relevant paperwork within three months of receiving your completion certificate. You’re only allowed to submit one claim, so you’ll need to make sure you get it right first time.
Most companies will make the building control application on your behalf and ensure that all the work is completed to the right standards. When a building inspector has inspected it, you’ll get a certificate. It usually takes around 6-8 weeks after completion to come.
How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard
If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!
• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.
• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard
• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.
• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.
• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.
• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.
• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.
Finding a builder nearby can have enormous assistance when it comes to your build. Period on site, their familiarity of local planning permission, constructors’ dealers and other local trades are all vital bits of knowledge that you’ll welcome on site.
It is always wise to walk around in your local area or drive to a site where any construction work is going on. It’ll give you a proper impression of the constructors who are active nearby. You don’t have to like their style of work or the project they are currently carrying out – after all, a builder can only produce what’s on the plans in front of them.
Find a Builder Other Tradesmen Recommend
If you’ve had to call an electrician before or a local plumber and liked their work, you can always ask them if they have any builders whom they would recommend. Maximum tradesmen get used to seeing the similar acquainted names from one place to another in the sites they are working on and every so often has favourites for who they like to work with — and who they see as a good source of work.
Always Talk to Previous Customers
Once you’ve found a builder you would like to work with, ask them for a list of previous customers they have worked with; they ought to be glad to offer particulars if they’re self-assured they’ve done an effective job.
Look for a builder online
A decent place to start looking for builders online is on sites like the ours so that you can find quality tradespeople and see genuine reviews from previous customers. Not all online review sites can be trusted to display real reviews.
If you’re having issues with the amount of space in your home and need an extra space without affecting your garden, loft conversion comes to mind. Not only is it a great solution to creating more living space within a home, but it’s also one of the most budget-friendly solutions you can count on to expand your space by thinking upwards rather than sideways. So if you’re thinking about converting your loft, one thing that almost immediately comes to mind is whether or not your house is suitable for loft conversion.
To answer the question of whether every house can have a loft conversion is a very simple one. Generally, not every house is suitable for loft conversion. This is due to the fact that each and every loft space - from the stairways below and floors to the rafters and the roof up above, is unique. Therefore, the best way to really figure out whether or not a house’s loft offers the potential for conversion is to get in touch with a loft specialist.
So what can make a house not suitable for a loft conversion? Let’s take a closer look!
✓ A house will not be suitable for a loft conversion if the height of the ceiling happens to be too low and it’ll not be possible to have it raised.
✓ If you do not own own the freehold to the loft space, you won’t be able to convert the loft. Surprisingly, this happens to be a common issue in London.
✓ You will not be able to convert your loft if you reside in a conservation area or in a listed building. But you can identify a design solution that’ll still comply with the conservation rules and keep planners happy.
Yes, bricklayers can work during the cold months, but it all depends on the type of work involved. For instance, residential housing maintenance works such as tuck pointing deficient mortar joints on exterior walls and columns as well as rebuilding of chimneys are best tackled during summer or simply put, the warmer months of the year. This is is mainly because the best results for these activities are achieved in the warmer months and several bricklayers will agree to this fact.
Mixing of mortar using anti-freeze technique to counter-act the effects of a cold weather can lead to white marks trailing down the brick when warmer temperatures comes knocking. As a result, even mortar mixing should be done at temperatures exceeding zero degree farenheit which will hold no serious consequences if the temperature should change to a little bit below the norms. During the winter, a good technique that can be incorporated to when mixing mortar would be to mix them in smaller quantities in a warmer environment. These small quantities will immediately be fed by the labourers to the bricklayers and in such circumstances, the mixed mortars will not be subjected to a freezing temperature for too long.
Generally, it would be very unwise to consider any bricklaying work to be done whenever the temperature jumps to a certain level which would be considered to be very inconvenient to work in. Interior works like remodelling of fireplaces can be tackled so long there is a warm space to mix the mortars while also keeping the materials at an indoor temperature. Bricklaying works that have, however, been completed during the colder months should be subjected to a very close inspection as well as looking for potential damage that can be caused to existing works as a result of the harsh weather.
Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!
• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.
• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).
• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.
• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.
• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.
• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.
• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.
• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.
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