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In a nutshell, a mortgage loan is for the acquisition of an asset, so lenders won’t tend to give you anything else in a mortgage that is going to cover your home renovation costs. When you are applying for your mortgage, your provider will examine the price of your new household. For example, if you’re planning to buy a property for £200,000, but you need another £50,000 to help improve it, you’ll find that your lender might turn you down.

Essentially, with any mortgage loans that you take out on your possessions, the bank or creditor theoretically owns your home till you’ve entirely paid off your loan, which is why it is very unlikely that you will get extra funds from them. There are some mortgage providers who will be willing to add on some building costs, but it is entirely up to you whether to choose it or not.

With most mortgages, banks and other lenders will usually give you a maximum of 95% of what you purchased your property for. That means, that even if you contemplate the household has the probability to be valued at so much more, you’ll have to find an alternative way of paying for the developments you have in attention. So, if the accumulation of extra funds on to your mortgage loan is out of the question, you’ll need to find additional ways of paying for the home developments.

It is well and good if you have the cash saved up, or else, you can explore other payment options which your bank or lender may be able to help you with. There are several methods by which you can collect the cost to pay for the improvements, from personal loans to credit cards or even overdrafts, there are tons of ways to lending money. Keep in mind these are all forms of debt so keep an eye out for the interest rates when you are repaying.

How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.

In recent times, more and more home and property owners are starting to come to terms with the large returns and little investment in cavity wall insulation provides. For a relatively little amount you can achieve a lot, from an increase in your home’s energy efficiency and reduction in heating bills to a huge boost in your property’s resale value and lots more. This makes you wonder how an ordinary insulation can help you achieve so much, right? Well, you’re definitely not alone! Several other potential investors are also eager to know exactly how the cavity wall insulation works to deliver all these juicy benefits. In this post, we’re going to go provide you with a detailed insight on how cavity wall insulation works. Let’s take a look!

Typically, cavity wall insulation works as acting as a shield which prevents the escape of heat from your home. It features a reflective surface which serves as a barrier to reflect heat from one side of the panel, effectively minimizing the amount of heat conduction that escapes through. This protection of your home from heat penetration comes with a couple of benefits with the obvious one being an incredible thermal efficiency. An insulated home or property is able to maintain a much more balanced temperature throughout the year – staying a lot cooler during the summer months and retain the heat generated during the winter months. However, a less talked about benefit is the fact that when an insulation is done during the construction of a house, the whole development phase can be completed a lot quicker. This is mainly because insulation offers total protection against weather conditions which enables internal trades to continue without the need to wait for brickwork or cladding to be completed.

Do you want your house to be built using brick? Or perhaps you just require the professional services of a bricklayer. Regardless of your bricklaying needs, the cost charged depends on each job as every job is unique. Bricklayers generally look at each task individually and charges based on the complexity of each. We’ve put together this guide to give you an idea of the costs charged by bricklayers. Let’s have a look!

Generally, bricklayers charge either based on a daily rate or a fixed price for a particular amount of bricks ( usually a thousand bricks or 10 - 12 metres square). On the average, an experienced bricklayer can charge within a range of £150 to £200 daily rate and if a labour is needed for the job, an additional £60 to £100 may be included to get the job completed in a quick and fast manner. If the quoting is done based on the number of bricks to be incorporated, then a thousand bricks will be quoted in between £350 to £450 which should be completed in a couple of days.

You should however take note that most times, the bricklayer’s cost will depend on the amount of work involved in the project. As a result, a more tedious and challenging project will most definitely cost more than a simpler one. Examples of some difficult projects that’s likely to cost more are hard to reach areas, difficult sites as well as second storeys which are considered to be more challenging than single storey buildings. What’s more? The complexity of the project is also a great cost factor. While some projects are basically direct and straightforward, others involve curves and more complex designs which will ultimately make the cost jump up.

How Much Plasterboard Do I Need?

Although many people especially contractors have a tough time estimating the number of drywall or plasterboard needed to complete a project, it’s a rather simple task if all factors are taken into consideration. If you’re able to follow the same procedures taken by professionals to count dry wall sheets, you’ll be in the right direction. Let’s have a look at the procedures to follow!

lTake Square Footage Measurement

• Measure the square footage of the area where the plasterboard will be fitted.

• Multiply the height by the width of each wall or ceiling area.

• Add all quantities to obtain a total square-foot amount.

lCalculate Drywall Sheets

• To calculate the number of drywall or plasterboard sheet is very simple once you’ve gotten the total square footage.

• To get started, simply divide the total square footage of area by 32 (that’s if you are using a 4 by 8 sheets) or you can also make use of 48 to make the division (only if you’re making use of the 4 by 12 sheets).

• The answer you get after the division will give you the full number of plasterboard sheets that’s required to complete the project.

We’d recommend you include an extra 10 to 15 percent of whatever you calculate to take care of the possible odd cuts and wastages. This implies that if your total area is 1600 square feet while incorporating 4 by 8 sheets, simply divide 1600 by 32 which equals 50 sheets, now take 10% of 50 which equals 5, then add back the 5 extra to the 50 sheets earlier calculated to get 55 sheets. If you wish to estimate the cost, simply multiply the number of sheets gotten by the price per sheet. Do not forget to include delivery charges and local taxes.

Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!

• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.

• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).

• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.

• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.

• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.

• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.

• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.

• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.

In some cases, it’s possible to convert a basement into an apartment. This can be a great way to incorporate an additional dwelling into your property and increase its value. However, converting a basement into an apartment can be quite expensive and time-consuming.

As with any type of dwelling, you’ll need to think about basic things like access, damp proofing, ventilation, insulation, heating, electrics, plumbing, lighting and décor. If you’re planning on extending your basement, then you’ll also need to ensure that your property is sufficiently supported.

It’s a good idea to consult a professional, like a basement conversion building specialist, to find out how feasible your project is before you go ahead with it.

The simple answer to this question is... they can be! Although there are many types of porch designs that are available in the market, the uPVC porch happens to be one of the most loved and cost effective. Most home and property owners prefer the installation of a uPVC porch for a number of reasons. These includes:

• Value for money

It’s no coincidence the uPVC is widely accepted across the building industry with a plethora of uses. Not only is it relatively inexpensive to manufacture, but even the recycled uPVC is now becoming more and more useful. UPVC’s main rivals are wood and aluminium, and both are way more expensive to incorporate for frame profiles. Therefore, making use of uPVC is going to make your initial costs relatively low.

• Life Span

Although the main rivals in both hardwood and aluminium can also boast a lengthy lifespan just as uPVC. However, considering the price that you can get a uPVC, the lifespan is just incredible as it can be measured in decades.

• Aesthetic Appeal

UPVC gives you a wide range of foil colours that’ll fit your home perfectly well while also enhancing it’s visual appeal. You can actually get a porch that looks exactly like it’s manufactured from timber frames. To achieve this, all you need to do would be to make use of a wood grain surface finish. This is also long lasting, strong and resistant to fade.

• Little Maintenance

This is a very common feature of uPVC that makes it even more advantageous when used in making a porch. Unlike timber or wood which swells due to absorption of water or shrinks, you’ll never need to worry about all these distortions and more with uPVC. No painting, no sanding and ultimately, low maintenance required.