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Adding a garden room to your property is a great way of creating an additional space within your home without having to invest heavily in large house extension projects. And not only does it expand your living space, but it’s also a way to add good value to your home or property. With the various benefits offered by a garden room, most individuals are usually surprised with just how affordable the living space can be. However, just like any other home improvement, the price of a garden room is influenced by a wide range of factors. These factors include the design you opt for whether standard or customized, the size of the garden room, the materials used, the number of fixtures and fittings you want as well as any other special design feature you require.

Asides from the money needed to put up the structure, there are also some common extra cost that’ll also be expended for both the interior and exterior of the living space. For instance, there are some furnitures and fittings that you’d like to put in your garden room and these will also form part of the overall cost. There’s also the electrical connections cost and this will vary depending on the distance of your room, the cables to be used as well as your electrician. For this part, you can expect to spend anything within the range of £850 to £1200 and since it’ll be used all year long, it’ll also require appliances for heating, insulation, electricity and ventilation.

Generally, the overall cost you should be expecting to pay for a modular build garden room will range between £10,000 to £40,000.

When it comes to extending a home, the rear of the house often comes to mind a lot more than the front. However, this doesn’t mean that you can’t extend the front of your house. This can be done either as part of a renovation project whereby the entire house is incorporated or it can also be done in isolation. It’s possible to extend the front of your house without the need to apply for a planning permission, however, there are a bunch of limitations you’d have to comply with if you wish to carry out with such a project. Sometimes, this may imply that extending to the front of your home is more tedious and tasking than extending your home’s rear. So exactly how far can you extend the front of your home without planning permission?

The short and simple answer to this question is 2 metres square area with a height not more than 3 metres. Generally, you do not need a planning permission to build a front porch as long as its area doesn’t go beyond 2 square metres from a public road or walkway. Also, a tiled or slated roof can be as much as 4 metres but other roofs must not go beyond 3 metres in height. If you want to extend the front of your home beyond the restrictions specified, then you’ll have to apply for a planning permission.

Extending the front of home can be quite costly, but this can be controlled by not building to the extension to the highest specification, not including an extension on kitchens or bathrooms and more.

With cavity walls being very similar to other type of brick works, it can be quite confusing to figure out the type of wall your property possesses. If your house was constructed after the 1920s, then its highly likely the you have cavity walls, while older houses (houses before the 1920s) are likely to have solid walls. What’s more? If you happen to own a home that was built in the last decade, then it’s very possible that it was built with insulation installed during construction.

An effective way to determine whether or not your property is built with cavity wall is to examine the brickwork on your home’s exterior. The bricks will typically possess a regular pattern if it features cavity walls. In the event whereby the brick work is covered by render, you can also figure it out by taking a measurement of the wall’s width. If the brick wall is beyond 3000mm in thickness ( from the exterior wall to the interior wall), then it probably features a cavity. Meanwhile, a wall that’s narrower is very likely to be solid. Stone walls, on the other hand, may actually be thicker but are most times solid.

In a situation whereby your house is built using steel frame or timber frame, or made using pre-fabricated concrete, there are varying rules that applies when it comes to insulation and should be examined by an expert before any insulation is installed. More often than not, most contractors will have installed special air vents, which can also be a good indicator that a cavity wall insulation has been done.

Many types of loft are suitable for a loft conversion. In general, you will need at least 2.3 metres of headroom in your existing loft. This is to make sure there is enough headroom after the conversion. Speak to a conversion specialist about the probability and possibility of doing this in your house.

Insulating your loft roof comes with a wide range of benefits. Not only do you get to maintain a comfortable temperature in your house for longer, but you’ll also get to cut down on your heating bills. If you wish to insulate your loft roof, you’ve come to the right place! This process can be very tedious and time consuming especially if you don’t what you’re doing or lack the required confidence to pull it off. It’s advisable to hire the services of a reputable professional who can guarantee the best results for help and also save you some time and money that can come from potentially costly errors.

Before you start rolling out, you’d have to make sure that all cracks, gaps and holes in the ceiling are filled with either a standard filler or decorators caulk. You can also clean between between the gaps in the joists thoroughly. And finally, check for hazards that can cause you problems before getting stated.

• Remember to leave ventilation gaps as you start from the eaves. Then work towards the loft’s centre, starting from the point furthest from the hatch.
• Lay the first layer between the joists which should be 100 mm and then the subsequent layer should be 170 mm to make it up to the recommended 270 mm.
• Carry the electric cables above the insulation and work around visible light fittings.
• Cut the roll in the centre of the floor when rolling out from the eaves on both sides with the help of a craft knife. Ensure that there are no gaps between the insulation and the joists’ edges.
• Lag pipes as you go in order to prevent walking over the insulation to get back to them.
• Ensure that the loft is totally insulated
• Insulate the hatch.

If you’re considering adding a two storey house extension, then setting a budget for this project would be a great way to get started. Similar to a rear extension, a two storey extension usually leaves the rest of the building needing some work and, due to its size, this may imply the re-development of the entire house - which is why they can be very costly. Some of the other influencing factors that can have big impact on a two storey house extension cost includes: your location, the size of the build, complexity of the design ( anything beyond the standard build will normally require more expertise and time), the glazing to be incorporated ( the more the glass used in the project, the more the material cost), as well as the team used.

Generally, when it comes to extensions, the major part of the expenses will be made on the build of the project. This is because it doesn’t only cover the material cost but also the contractor’s overhead as well as the daily rates. At this stage, the extension prices can be determined by the standard of the work that’s being done.

For a fairly average room size of about 18 square metre, the two storey extension should cost within the range of £2,500 to £3,000 per square metre - with the range being determined by the finishes incorporated. Therefore, a two storey extension of about 18 square metre should cost within the range of £45,000 to £55,000. However, this is with the assumption that there are standard window sizes, bathroom suits are modest, and without any need for any purpose joinery or glazing. If you wish to include all these extra features you’ll also have to pay more to make the total cost between £70,000 to £80,000.

When it comes to laying of bricks, it is essential to get the right mortar mix. It is vital, be it for construction or maintenance projects, so far mortar is required. There are several materials incorporated in getting mortar which includes both cement and sharp sand, soft sand or plasterer’s sand and lots more. Here, we are going to look at the right ratio for cement and sand mix in bricklaying.

Cement include ingredients such as iron, aluminium, as well as silicon and it is mainly used for mortars like aerated cement mortar, Portland cement mortar and gauged mortar. Sand, on the other hand, comes in different forms such as sharp sand, soft sand and plasterer’s sand. The sharp sand consists of a larger grain size than the others and is usually incorporated in the construction areas that requires more strength as well as flexibility. Soft sand is the most common one used in mortar and it’s also referred to as bricklayers’ sand. These are used to make all types of mortar. Finally the plasterer’s sand which neither has the sharp sand’s coarseness nor the fineness of the soft sand, but can also be used for any form of mortar.

Cement and sand mortar is used for a plethora of bricklaying jobs serving as a glue for bricks, walls and pillars, while also repairing or maintaining old listed buildings. The preferred ratio here is 1:3 to 1:5 of cement and building sand. Meanwhile, to get a sand cement mix, essential materials that are required includes water, soft building sand as well as cement. However, you must also note that a sand and cement mortar is not used for structural projects, rather a concrete ratio is used.

A barn conversion is where an agricultural building is altered to serve a different purpose. Lots of barns conversion projects involve converting an old barn into one or more homes. However, barns can also be converted into other types of commercial building, like offices.