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How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard

If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!

• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.

• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard

• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.

• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.

• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.

• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.

• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.

If you’re about to carry out a loft conversion project, you’d probably be wondering how long it’ll take to complete the task. Well, you’re not alone! This is one of the most common questions when it comes to loft conversion projects, however, providing a set timeframe for completion of such projects is impossible as all loft conversions vary. There are different factors that can determine the duration of your project. These factors include, the materials to be used, the type of the proposed loft conversion, the kind of staircase you’ll like to have installed, the number of windows included, the number of rooms to be added as well as a number of other influencing factors. As a result of these variables, the milestones and timings provided are only to be taken as guidelines. If you’d really like to have a set date, you can get in touch with a professional for help.

Generally, it’ll take up to 8 weeks to complete a loft conversion project.

✓ The first week activities will include putting up scaffolding, receiving the first materials for the build and creating an opening in the roof to gain access to the loft space.

✓ In the second week, the structure of the roof will be ammended and more support added.

✓ Third week, the floor joists will be fitted, building of the loft conversion will start, completion of the external roof works and commencement of plumbing and electric works.

✓ Fourth week, complete the building, construct the loft floor, fit the roof windows, insulation, ventilation and internal stud walls.

✓ Fifth week, apply plaster and plasterboard to the room walls, create a staircase opening and fit the new staircase.

✓ Sixth week, plaster the staircase area, complete plumbing and electrical works, hang the doors, fit skirting, handrails and bannisters and start decoration.

✓ Seventh week, complete the decoration and clean and wipe out all wastes.

✓ Eight week, complete all the remaining tasks.

Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!

• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.

• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).

• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.

• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.

• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.

• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.

• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.

• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.

Typically, loft conversions do not require planning permission except in certain situations. They’re usually covered under what’s known as Permitted Development. Certain building works like loft conversion, rear extension and conservatories are granted planning permission by local authorities. Permitted Development, however, gives you a free range to improve your home without having any issues from the councils or regulations. Before your planned loft conversion can be covered under Permitted Development, there are some certain criteria that must be met. This criteria includes the following:

✓ The extension must not go beyond the existing slope of the roof at the front of the house.

✓ The loft space converted must not go beyond 40 cubic metres in a terraced house.

✓ The roof’s height must not be increased by the extension.

✓ The loft space converted must not reach beyond 50 cubic metres in a detached or semi detached house.

✓ The plan for the extension mustn’t involve structures like balconies, verandas or anything other structures of this nature.

✓ The roof extension should be positioned as far back as possible or at least 20cm from the existing eaves.

✓ The side that faces the window openings should be at least 1.7m beyond the floor and the windows should also be obscured.

✓ The roof extension must not overhang the existing roof or wall of the house.

✓ The materials that are to be used must be similar or the same to the materials that has already been used on the house’s exterior.

However, you should bear in mind that there are some properties that are exempt from Permitted Development. Examples of these type of properties include conservation areas, Areas Of Outstanding Natural Beauty and World Heritage sites. Permitted Development does not also provide coverage for listed buildings.

The short and simple answer to this question is yes, you can build a room in your garden. In fact, if you want an additional space for a living room, dining room, games room, study room or perhaps you want something as cool as a pool house, then looking at your garden for a solution may just be the perfect answer to your need for an extra outdoor living space.

Outbuildings such as garden rooms do not usually require planning permission as they’re usually covered by the permitted development. As a result, making it even a lot more attractive to homeowners who would not like to pass through the stress involved or pay the money required to submit an application for planning permission. However, if you need your garden room to be covered by permitted development ( if it’s not a listed building or in a designated area), you must follow these guidelines:

✓ The garden room shouldn’t be in front of your home or property.

✓ The total area of your extensions, sheds and outbuildings ( which includes your garden room), must not go beyond 50 percent of the total land area surrounding your property.

✓ It must be a single storey that’s less than 3 metres high ( 4 metres for a dual pitched roof). And it must not go beyond 2.5 metres in height if the structure is within 2 metres of your boundary.

✓ The eaves must not go beyond 2.5 metres above ground level.

✓ It must not feature a balcony, veranda or any raised platform

✓ It must not be a self contained living accommodation.

The position of your garden room will be partly determined by the space available in your garden. If you need it to link it to your utilities then positioning it a bit close to your main house would be a cost effective choice unless you’re using off grid sources of power, heat as well as water.

When its impossible to build out and create more space sideways, why can’t you look upwards? As more and more homeowners in the UK are carrying out their loft conversion project, one question that keeps popping up is the amount of value the loft conversion can add to their homes. However, this is a question that is impossible to provide a single and precise answer to. This is because the value that’ll be generated by a loft conversion is largely dependent on a wide range of influencing factors. To give you a vague idea of the loft conversion value to a property, we’ve put forward a research carried out by industry experts so you can know what you’re in for.

Nationwide carried out a research which shows clearly that a loft conversion including an additional bedroom as part of the building plan will increase a house’s value by up to 21 percent. Since the number of rooms a house has is one of the main metrics for house valuations, loft conversion comes in pretty handy as it’s a great and easy way to convert your house from a 4 bedroom house to a 5 bedroom house prior to sale.

Apart from the financial value aspect, loft conversion also adds more value to your lifestyle which is very unlike nearly other financial investments you can make. More space in your house automatically means more storage or a new room as you wish. A new room can be for a growing family or probably to serve as a guest room. It can also be used as a study space or even an office especially with the rapidly growing rate of people working from home. With loft conversion, the possibilities in terms of value are simply endless!

With the numerous benefits that comes with the installation of an external wall insulation in a building, it’s also important to find out whether it’s also safe before proceeding to fit one in your home. Firstly, to ensure that external wall insulation systems are safe, they must be BBA approved, which means they’ve been subjected to a thorough testing by the British Board of Agrement and therefore, suitable for use in UK homes.

Given the fact that cladding materials have recently generated a lot of debate and negative press about how reliable some particular materials are, questions are being asked of the safety and reliability of external wall insulation. However we must clarify that, although external wall insulation can be classified under cladding, it is very different to rainscreen cladding - which caused the Grenfell fire tragedy.

External wall insulation is completely safe. However, when it comes to fire, the safety of your system depends largely on the insulation type in question. The safest type of insulation you can have installed is the Rockwool insulation boards which are rated as Euroclass A1 non-combustible. The board is specially designed in such a way that it contains fire - preventing it from reaching the other areas of the building. They also do not produce harmful emission or smoke when impacted by fire.

Meanwhile, the Wood Fibre, is also a great insulation which is known to char and not burn. Contrary to many beliefs, it actually burns slowly creating this charring effect which produces an oxygen barrier that helps reduce the spread of fire.

To make your system safer, you can also make use of Fibreglass Mesh for reinforcement. It helps to improve the strength of the tensile which promotes the security of the boards attached to the wall.

One of the main reasons why fitted wardrobes are a popular choice amongst homeowners is due to the fact that they’re able to help maximise storage space and since they’re usually customized for the particular room, they’re always good looking. However, just like any other home item, over time your installed wardrobe may start to look a bit dated and old fashioned. In these type of events and in order to save money, several homeowners would prefer to update its look to a more modern one without having to completely replace the fitted wardrobe with a new one. In this guide, we’ll give some great tips on how to update your old fitted wardrobe. Let’s take a look!

✓ Add mirrors to the wardrobe doors. Your old fitted wardrobe may be made of old fashioned laminate or chipboard which happens to draw scratches and dents here and there. If this is the case, you can simply add mirrors to help conceal the damage or unsightly marks.

✓ Include decorative trimming or panelling. You can choose from the various styles of trimmings you’ll find at hardware stores. By adding some strips of moulding, the whole look of your fitted wardrobe can change significantly.

✓ Painting. If the surface of the wardrobe permits, painting can go a long way to alter the look of the wardrobe.

✓ Change the handles. Handles may seem as a little item that doesn’t add to the aesthetics of the wardrobe. However, in reality, change your old handle with a more modern and fashionable one can make a great difference to the wardrobe’s overall appearance.

✓ Upgrade the interior. You can upgrade the interior of your wardrobe to give you more options and a better appearance. For instance, you may wish to have part of the wardrobe to offer integrated shelving or perhaps pull out drawers rather than having all the interior space for hanging clothes and garments.