Building Work | Porch
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Yetunde D
Start Date: Immediate
Call back anytime. New build or replacement: New build Quote requested on a porch, in PVCu, to be supplied and fitted.
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Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Yetunde D
Start Date: Immediate
Call back anytime. New build or replacement: New build Quote requested on a porch, in PVCu, to be supplied and fitted.
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Douglas S
Start Date: Immediate
customer in the dunoon area made an enquiry a couple of projects including loft & roof insulation.call anytime and arrange an appointment to discuss. below is some details about this project: are you ...
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Douglas S
Start Date: Immediate
quotation for a warm roof insulation on the main roof of the house. the estimated floor area for upstairs is 50m2. there are two dormers and 2 small velux windows. the pitch is about 40degrees. we wou...
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Kenneth N
Start Date: Immediate
roof insulation raised from the current 100mm to 270mm are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: other how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 do you currently have loft insulationn...
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: JOHN D
Start Date: Immediate
GARAGE WALLS TO BE STRIPPED OF OLD RENDER AND NEW LIME RENDER TO BE APPLIED
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Helen D
Start Date: Immediate
I would like a quote for loft insulation
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Eszter M
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
customer made an online enquiry for building maintenance via one of our websites. confirmed via email/sms/. please call to arrange an appointment to quote. are you the property owner: owner of the pr...
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Pete S
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
quotes needed for work from an engineering report carried out on the address expecting to be subsidence requiring underpinning. if you want to quote, i'll make the report available to you for you to ...
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Peter H
Start Date: Less than one month
single brick wall removed between two bed recesses in first floor tenement, building warrant approved and 2.3mtr beam supplied. work required ,props to ceiling , remove wall leaving 300mm of wall belo...
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Heather G
Start Date: Immediate
Possibly external wall insulation.
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: David B
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Topping up loft insulation by 200mm loft are around 109 sq meters
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Kate R
Start Date: Less than one month
installing a Victorian fireplace, (slate mantle, iron insert with inset tiles), for a gas fire Time scale: Less than one month
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Kate B
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Do you require a top up: No Age of Property: 1970-2000 Are you interested in cavity wall i...
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Kate B
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
I need cavity wall insulation Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached How many bedrooms do you have: 3-4 Do you currently have loft insulationn: Yes Do you require a ...
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Peter J
Start Date: Immediate
Specify solid ground floor, small extension, knock through doorway in structural wall.
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Kirsty M
Start Date: Immediate
External wall insulation 3 bed detached bungalow
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Jermaine M
Start Date: Immediate
Home music studio. Wood. Thin. Nailed four walls. Floor. I'm 6" 1 so about 6" 2 four walls as is. Plus ceiling and floor.
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Dilbag S
Start Date: 1 to 3 months
Home Owner Out side wall insulation and loft insulation Time scale: 1-3 months Please call to appoint
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Colin P
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation
Dunoon - PA23
Enquiry from: Ivar B
Start Date: Immediate
Customers own description of work to be carried out: single storey rear extension, 6.2 x 4 m Patio doors & 4 windows Timber frame with white upvc cladding Marley modern tiles on peak roof with no ...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceYes. Most extensions will add substantial value to your home, and you may find that the extension adds more value than it cost. However, it’s important to be sure that the home remains balanced. Extending your garage and leaving your property with no parking spaces, for example, may impact your ability to sell.
Tiling a porch roof is a very important but laborious and difficult task. A project of this magnitude will require a large investment in planning and preparation way before the actual installation process takes place. It can be a brand new porch roofing tile or a replacement of the existing one, either way it’s crucial to get the right technique. If you lack proper training or experience in this field, we’d recommend you hire the services of a reliable professional probably within your local area to guarantee the best results and to save yourself some time and money. This guide will give you a good insight into the porch roof tiling process. Let’s have a look!
• With the crown looking upwards, put the first tile on the batten and centre the tile from side to side.
• Hammer a 10d nail at the base of the tile and into the batten (make sure not to overdrive the nail).
• To provide a much needed support, apply a little mortar under the first tile.
• Identify the inner end of the first tile and place another tile on top. Take a measurement from the outer end and adjust the end of the second tile to fit.
• Just like you’ve done with the first tile, nail the second tile into the batten.
• Position two tiles at the both ends of the ridge and proceed with the installation just as you’ve done with the previous tiles.
• Take a measurement of the distance across the ridge from the first tile’s outer end. Once done, you can then calculate the number of tiles required by subtracting 16 inches from your measurement and divide the answer by 8.
• Beginning at the second tile on one end of the ridge, install the half the number of ridge tiles towards the centre of the ridge. Now install the remaining tiles working from the opposite end to the ridge’s centre. At the centre of ridge should be a key tile with mortar.
The best way to go about converting a basement depends on its current condition and what you’d like to use it for.
If you’re happy with its size and structure, and just want to turn it into useful storage space, then your project shouldn’t be too complicated. You’ll simply need to make sure it’s damp proof and waterproof – either by fitting tanking or a cavity drain membrane with a sump and pump. You may also need to invest in new flooring, fit basic lighting, and plaster and paint the walls and ceiling.
If you’d like to turn your basement into living space, then you’ll need to think about ventilation, insulation and heating. If this involves creating a kitchen or bathroom, you’ll also need to incorporate plumbing.
If you want to extend your basement, add lightwells, or fit windows and a sunken garden, this makes things much more complicated. You’ll probably want to hire an architect or basement conversion building specialist to help you with the design and planning, and you’ll need a structural engineer to help you ensure your property is sufficiently supported.
In general, you won’t need planning permission to install soundproofing. If you are installing soundproofing against a shared wall, you will usually need to follow the rules and restrictions set out in the Party Wall Act. In listed buildings and conservation areas, there may be extra restrictions on soundproofing.
There are two main types of cladding. The first is material cladding, which refers to layers of a material that are attached to the external walls. The material used could be timber, PVC, stone, or other materials. The second type of cladding is rendering, where a coat of plaster is applied to the wall.
Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!
• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.
• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.
• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.
• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.
• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.
• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.
• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.
• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.
• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.
The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.
Driveway surfacing materials like concrete, asphalt and clay brick usually crack because they’ve been exposed to extreme temperatures or put under high pressure. It’s important to repair driveway cracks before they get worse and cause damage to vehicles and perhaps others to trip on raised cracks.
The short and simple answer to this question is yes, you can build a room in your garden. In fact, if you want an additional space for a living room, dining room, games room, study room or perhaps you want something as cool as a pool house, then looking at your garden for a solution may just be the perfect answer to your need for an extra outdoor living space.
Outbuildings such as garden rooms do not usually require planning permission as they’re usually covered by the permitted development. As a result, making it even a lot more attractive to homeowners who would not like to pass through the stress involved or pay the money required to submit an application for planning permission. However, if you need your garden room to be covered by permitted development ( if it’s not a listed building or in a designated area), you must follow these guidelines:
✓ The garden room shouldn’t be in front of your home or property.
✓ The total area of your extensions, sheds and outbuildings ( which includes your garden room), must not go beyond 50 percent of the total land area surrounding your property.
✓ It must be a single storey that’s less than 3 metres high ( 4 metres for a dual pitched roof). And it must not go beyond 2.5 metres in height if the structure is within 2 metres of your boundary.
✓ The eaves must not go beyond 2.5 metres above ground level.
✓ It must not feature a balcony, veranda or any raised platform
✓ It must not be a self contained living accommodation.
The position of your garden room will be partly determined by the space available in your garden. If you need it to link it to your utilities then positioning it a bit close to your main house would be a cost effective choice unless you’re using off grid sources of power, heat as well as water.
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