Insulation | External Wall
Dundee - DD3
Enquiry from: Alistair A
Start Date: Immediate
Exterior walls of the house roughcast
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Dundee - DD3
Enquiry from: Alistair A
Start Date: Immediate
Exterior walls of the house roughcast
Dundee - DD5
Enquiry from: Peter S
Start Date: Immediate
Bett Bros Elgin design house - require porch appx 3 sq mtrs at front door.
Montrose - DD10
Enquiry from: Richard D
Start Date: Immediate
Floor boards lifted one day in eves and loft. Government scheme insulating. Insolation put between floor boards in front and back bedrooms and landing. Insulation put in-between rafters. But fi...
Dundee - DD2
Enquiry from: Alan T
Start Date: Immediate
Hi looking to get existing loft insulation replaced due to the presence of mould. Need a quote for removal and supply + fitting of new insulation material. We live in a 3 bed detached house in Long...
Forfar, Kirriemuir - DD8
Enquiry from: Gordon R
Start Date: Immediate
Cavity wall insulation for a bedroom and under floor insulation
Montrose - DD10
Enquiry from: Maureen C
Start Date: Immediate
I have had foam insulation installed in my loft and workmen have sprayed over vents. I need new vents installed and fibre glass insulation removed from floor. Also, maybe roof cleaning.
Forfar, Kirriemuir - DD8
Enquiry from: Ron R
Start Date: Immediate
Looking for a provisional quote for insulating my pitched roof, in-between the rafters. Floor area approx 80m2
Dundee - DD2
Enquiry from: Abdulkareem C
Start Date: Immediate
We have had conflicting info about whether our house has existing cavity wall insulation and whether it needs removal/ new installation as house feels cold quickly. We need clarification and quote to ...
Dundee - DD5
Enquiry from: Steven A
Start Date: Immediate
I live in a terraced house. Our neighbors' living room backs on to mine. Looking for sound proofing suggestions.
Dundee - DD2
Enquiry from: Kev A
Start Date: Immediate
We had a surveyor up last month,possible roof look..its not!By he said our loft insulation is lacling all round edges in loft and nowhere deep enough in other areas and bits not even covered.He also s...
Arbroath - DD11
Enquiry from: JAMES C
Start Date: Immediate
Cavity wall installation
Dundee - DD4
Enquiry from: Lynne C
Start Date: Immediate
i have a 1.5x3m wooden porch which i would like replaced with a pvc one. are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have planning permission: no what material are you looking for: upvc ...
Dundee - DD2
Enquiry from: Connor S
Start Date: Immediate
I need a tapered insulation going from 75 mm down to 30mm. Garage is 7m×3.5 m I need the insulation tapering down the 3.5m side
Dundee - DD5
Enquiry from: Karen T
Start Date: Immediate
Cavity wall insulation semi detached house
Carnoustie - DD7
Enquiry from: Jen T
Start Date: Immediate
We are looking for a 3.3 x 2.4 concrete base for a mini log cabin in our back garden. Is this something you could quote for.
Dundee - DD3
Enquiry from: Chris M
Start Date: Immediate
Looking for someone with experience installing External Insulation. We would like to install external insulation to our three bedroom semi detached house. Please get in touch for me information....
Carnoustie - DD7
Enquiry from: Una A
Start Date: Immediate
Would like to build a porch for the front door. Around 1.5×2m (size that do not require building permit). Mostly PVC.
Montrose - DD10
Enquiry from: Karolina P
Start Date: Immediate
I was wondering how much would be to insulate my house
Forfar, Kirriemuir - DD8
Enquiry from: Sally H
Start Date: Immediate
Our house is single storey building, originally 2 semi detached cottages, with solid sandstone walls built in 1820. No soffits or barge boards in the main building so the gutters are directly attached...
Dundee - DD2
Enquiry from: Colin H
Start Date: Immediate
price for external wall insulation on gable end, back and rear extension of the house. house is semi-detached. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: semi detached how many b...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceThe holy grail of home extensions is basically the need for additional space for living as well as leisure. However, before commencing your home extension project, you’d probably want to know just how big your new building can be. In this article, you’ll find the answer to this question which is also frequently asked by many other home or property owners in the UK.
Besides your budget, there are two other major influencing factors that can determine just how much extra room that can be added. These factors include whether you wish to carry out the extension project under Permitted Development rights which is usually for a smaller project or you’d prefer to opt for a larger project which is covered by Planning Permission.
Apart from the limitations in the size of an extension under Permitted Development, the extensions are also a lot more affordable and consumes less time when compared to the extensions under planning permission. So what exactly is the size limit for an extension under Permitted Development and the ones under Planning Permission?
For a single storey extension, the maximum size that can be constructed without having to submit an application for Planning Permission includes:
• An extension should have a maximum length of 6m, if you reside in a terraced home or a semi-detached property.
• Extensions for detached properties can have a maximum length of 8m.
• The extension built must not go beyond half your garden’s area.
• The extension should have a maximum height of 4 metres, but in the event whereby the extension is situated within 2 metres of the boundary of your property, it should not exceed a height of 3 metres.
• The extension should not be higher than the highest part of the existing house’s roof.
How Much Plasterboard Do I Need?
Although many people especially contractors have a tough time estimating the number of drywall or plasterboard needed to complete a project, it’s a rather simple task if all factors are taken into consideration. If you’re able to follow the same procedures taken by professionals to count dry wall sheets, you’ll be in the right direction. Let’s have a look at the procedures to follow!
lTake Square Footage Measurement
• Measure the square footage of the area where the plasterboard will be fitted.
• Multiply the height by the width of each wall or ceiling area.
• Add all quantities to obtain a total square-foot amount.
lCalculate Drywall Sheets
• To calculate the number of drywall or plasterboard sheet is very simple once you’ve gotten the total square footage.
• To get started, simply divide the total square footage of area by 32 (that’s if you are using a 4 by 8 sheets) or you can also make use of 48 to make the division (only if you’re making use of the 4 by 12 sheets).
• The answer you get after the division will give you the full number of plasterboard sheets that’s required to complete the project.
We’d recommend you include an extra 10 to 15 percent of whatever you calculate to take care of the possible odd cuts and wastages. This implies that if your total area is 1600 square feet while incorporating 4 by 8 sheets, simply divide 1600 by 32 which equals 50 sheets, now take 10% of 50 which equals 5, then add back the 5 extra to the 50 sheets earlier calculated to get 55 sheets. If you wish to estimate the cost, simply multiply the number of sheets gotten by the price per sheet. Do not forget to include delivery charges and local taxes.
Do you know about 25 percent of heat that escapes from an uninsulated house are lost through the roof? Fortunately, roof insulation is something that can done by all DIYers irrespective of their experience levels. However, if you happen to lack the confidence necessary to pull off this, then it’s strongly recommended that you hire the services of a professional who can guarantee the best results and also save you time and money that could arise from potential cost mistakes. Let’s take a look!
To get started, simply make sure all cracks and gaps in the ceiling are filled using a standard filler or decorator caulk. Once done, clean the gaps in the joists and even to the point of hovering all the dust up. Finally,check for the hazards that can cause you problems before laying the loft insulation.
Over the years, garden rooms have gradually become a popular choice amongst homeowners as a cost effective way of expanding living space within a home or property. A garden room is basically a living space and a type of pavilion building made from wood that’s well insulated, double glazed as well as electrically wired. It’s however a building which is subsidiary to the main one, built with the purpose of creating an extra functional space within the property. These garden outbuildings are very functional and can be used as a garden studio, office, salon and much more. They can also be incorporated for recreational purposes for evening relaxations, family and friends get-together, lounge or even spa. Other possible uses of a garden room include gyms, pool houses, playrooms, dens, home cinemas and game rooms.
Garden rooms are functional living spaces that are usable throughout the year. And with the rate at which their popularity is growing, you’ll find some companies offering cheap and low quality alternatives featuring shed like construction and felt roof. Garden rooms, on the other hand, are a valuable investment with superior designs and top notch build. They’re constructed in a very similar way to houses with timber frames. Furthermore, they are fully insulated and can also include the normal building solutions such as heating and running water, electricity and many more depending on the requirements of the home or property owner. With the durability of garden rooms being a major objective, they’re typically clad in natural solid timber like Cedar, Larch or Acacia. Materials such as EPDM rubber or cedar shingles are normally used for the roof covering. What’s more? They usually have large expanses of glazing and glazed doors fitted.
Many types of loft are suitable for a loft conversion. In general, you will need at least 2.3 metres of headroom in your existing loft. This is to make sure there is enough headroom after the conversion. Speak to a conversion specialist about the probability and possibility of doing this in your house.
How To Repair A Pothole In Gravel Driveways
When the integrity of your gravel driveway is impaired not only does it have a negative impact on the curb appeal of your property, but also makes your driveway a danger zone. If your driveway needs to be repaired, you’d simply have to grab the bull by the horn and get it done - the sooner, the better to avoid the problem getting worse and to have your beautiful gravel driveway back as soon as possible.
The major cause of potholes in driveways is usually water, when it gets trapped beneath the surface of the driveway. Therefore, you may also want to enhance the drainage in the area as part of your repair. The repair process is quite simple for confident do-it-yourselfers, but if otherwise, then calling in a reliable professional will save you some time and extra money that can result from possible errors. So how do you repair gravel driveway potholes?
✓ Prepare the area. This involves removing all forms of debris from the pothole. To achieve this, you can rake, shovel or brush the loose stones, soil and other debris from the pothole.
✓ Fill the pot hole. Make use of a coarse gravel to fill up the pothole to a depth of about 3 inches beneath the driveway’s level. Upon the filling, simply tamp down the coarse gravel using a commercial tamper or any available homemade option. Once done, the final 3 inches to the surface of the gravel driveway should then be filled up with gravel which perfectly matches the colour and texture of the remaining driveway.
✓ Compact the patch. To achieve this in an easy and fast way, simply run your car’s wheel up and down over the repaired spot gently a couple of times. This will be enough to compact the patch and seal the pothole.
The importance of underpinning a house cannot be overemphasized. Firstly, what is underpinning? Well, underpinning is simply the act of reinforcing, repairing, strengthening or improving the depth of an existing foundation by lowering the footing to ensure that it rests more on more reliable and supportive soil. Not only does this method help to strengthen your building and preserve its structural integrity, but it also does increase your property’s value and gives you peace of mind knowing your property is safe. If you’re thinking about underpinning your house, you have two options – do it yourself or call in a reputable structural engineer. The latter is more advisable as the method involves a lot of specialized knowledge, skills and tools to guarantee a successful outcome. In this post, we’re going to take you through the process involved in underpinning a house. Let’s take a look!
To get started, you should know that concrete underpinning features excavating pier footings around the building at about 2 to 3 metres distance between each other. In some cases, underpins can be installed from within the house. The footings of the underpin should go very deep into the underlying soil in such a way that fully supports the weight of the building or structure. Once done, now proceed to attaching the new footing to the building. You can achieve this by excavating underneath the existing footing to make for a stronger prop. Individual prop and pier arrangement is then strengthened using strong steel bars. Once completed, the concrete is then poured.
A professional underpinning contractor will make sure there’s sufficient space left between the existing footings and the new underpins as this space will ensure that the new underpins can be easily used to jack up the house and level it once the poured concrete cures.
External cladding will have an impact on a damp problem. However, it’s important that cladding is the last part of a damp treatment, as installing cladding over a damp wall will make the problem worse. Do not cut corners or try to remedy a problem with the cheapest solution, a damp proof course may need to be put in place before cladding.
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