Insulation | External Wall
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Christine S
Start Date: Immediate
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Survey and Quote for internal and external wall insulation
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Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Christine S
Start Date: Immediate
Survey and Quote for internal and external wall insulation
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Mark B
Start Date: Immediate
To repair 2/3 wooden windows in a traditional cottage in huntly.
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Steven H
Start Date: Immediate
Sun house roof looking for price and availability to have a metal roof fitted.
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Gary M
Start Date: Immediate
customer is currently in the process of looking for quotes to add a single storey extension to their property. are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached looking for: si...
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Gary M
Start Date: Immediate
price for an extension to a bungalow. plans have been already submitted and should be passed shortly with a view to start in march/april when the weather improves. are you the property owner: owner of...
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Alan M
Start Date: Immediate
cavity wall insulation and underfloor insulation are you the property owner: owner of the property property type: detached how many bedrooms do you have: 1-2 property age: 1970-2000 are you in a cons...
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Nicola W
Start Date: Immediate
hi, i am after a quote for cavity wall insulation for the two extensions on my home. they are built of breeze block with about a 15cm cavity. thanks. are you the property owner: owner of the property...
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Nikki W
Start Date: Immediate
external insulation to this house: https://www.mcewanfraserlegal.co.uk/properties/1-and-2-placemill-farm-cottages-forgue-huntly-ab54-6dd/mfl6183161 (the house will be both properties knocked together)...
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Nikki W
Start Date: Immediate
External insulation to 4 bed house with mansard profile roof - https://www.rightmove.co.uk/property-for-sale/property-66711897.html. Currently harled. 2 small rear extensions.
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: W
Start Date: Immediate
Soundproofing in my semi detached home between my neighbouring walls in my bedroom upstairs and living room.
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Paul M
Start Date: Immediate
looking for a price for 4x1bed flats all flats are the same spec thanks Paul
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Richard C
Start Date: Immediate
Old Granite farm house built in 1890 with no loft insulation Time scale: Immediate Please call to appoint Please call to appoint Please call to appoint
Huntly - AB54
Enquiry from: Rick R
Start Date: Immediate
Are you the property owner: Owner of the property Property Type: Detached Looking For: Single storey extension Do you have planning permission: Yes Do you have plans drawn up: No Do you require P...
How much do Builders cost? Prices for Builders in 2025 can fluctuate relying on the sort of work that you need to have carried out in your residence.
Are you planning to erect a new house or structure? If yes, then you’d probably want to know just how much it’ll take to get the project over the line to help you set a budget and start to plan. Building a new house is requires huge financial investment and as a result, there’s the need to carry out your due diligence before you proceed. In this post, we’re going to give you an insight into the prices charged by builders to erect a new home or structure.
First and foremost, like every other home project, the price charged by builders to construct a new house or structure depends on a wide range of factors. These factors include the size, location, accessibility as well as qualifications of the builders you wish to employ just to mention a few. For instance, you’d expect the cost of building two-storey in London to be a lot more expensive than the price of a one-story building in Scotland. However, we’ll try our best to give you an idea of the price range you can expect to incur to complete your project.
In general, a builder will charge within the range of £10 to about £15 per hour on the average. For small building projects which includes wall and foundations repairs, a builder will typically charge about £11 per hour. However, the price charge will depend on the extent of the job due to the fact that simple tasks such as repointing only costs about £10 per hour, while laying new foundations can cost up to £15 per hour.
The table shows the types of work that Builders typically do and the average cost range of these tasks. Some tasks take longer to finish than others so prices do fluctuate by job.
View our Builder cost guide View our Builder adviceIf your basement has a cavity drain membrane, it’ll need a pump to move water away from the exterior of your basement and prevent flooding.
Sump pumps can be noisy, but they don’t have to be. Generally, if you have a well-designed pump that’s installed correctly, you shouldn’t find it a problem. For best results, hire a skilled, experienced professional to supply and install your drainage system.
Yes. Most extensions will add substantial value to your home, and you may find that the extension adds more value than it cost. However, it’s important to be sure that the home remains balanced. Extending your garage and leaving your property with no parking spaces, for example, may impact your ability to sell.
Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!
• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.
• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.
• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.
• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.
• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.
• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.
• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.
• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.
• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.
The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.
This is an individual who is trained in the art of working with concrete blocks or bricks, clay bricks as well as other kinds of mortar building materials. In a combination of these materials and good bricklaying skills, a bricklayer can build and repair veneer as well as full brick construction, arches, partitions and other structures.
Contrary to many beliefs, a bricklayer actually does more than laying of bricks. There’s more to being a bricklayer than you can probably think of. A single bricklaying projects requires a wide array of skills. Let’s have a look at these skills!
• Using damp resistant materials to seal foundations.
• Spreading mortar between joints and applying them to serve as a thick layer binding the bricks together in rows.
• Reading and working from specifications as well as plans.
• Working with brick-cutting machines.
• Taking charge and caring for cement blocks or bricks, clay bricks and the likes.
• Construction of scaffolding - subject to possession of some licenses in some states.
A bricklayer mostly works outdoors, in the field and may also work at heights. Depending on the job, a bricklayer can work as part of a team or be in contact with the public. They are mostly recruited by building and construction companies and bricklaying sub contractors. However, they can also set up their own private construction firm or become a self employed tradesperson.
A bricklaying qualification is one of just two construction trades which can continue to become a registered builder. And regardless of the form a bricklaying employment takes, there are certain qualities that makes a really good bricklayer. These includes:
• Ability to work at heights and outdoors
• Enjoy practical work
• Technical aptitude
• Good hand-eye coordination
• Independent and yet a team player too
• Top physical fitness
• Attitude and attendance.
It depends on the style and size of the conversion, but in general, a loft conversion will take between 1-2 months. A loft conversion is a substantial building project, and plans will need to be drawn up. This may add to the time it takes to complete your loft conversion.
Are you about to start a new construction job when it’s a heavily rainy period? Or perhaps you’re just interested in knowing how bricklayers work. Well regardless of your purpose, one thing you should know is laying of bricks has a few rules and one of them is not to lay a brick wall when its raining. This is mainly because your structure’s quality and integrity would be heavily compromised if water comes in contact with the mortar before it gets the time to dry. However, with the help of a concrete protective tent, you can prevent water from coming in contact and damaging the mortar. So let’s look at the procedures to follow to work in the rain!
lDetermine The Concrete Protective Tents Required
• Concrete protective tents come in various sizes so you have to know what’s required to get the job done.
• Firstly, calculate the amount of space required to lay the brick wall
• Then, incorporate the appropriate size and number of tents.
lSet Up The Tents
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to set up the tents
• Once installed, the tent should extend past the location for the bricklaying and slope downwards.
l Access The Area
• Inspect the location during rainfall to ensure water is not sneaking through.
lBuild a Lumber Frame
• Use 2 to 4 pieces of lumber to build a frame.
• Set it into the ground depending on the size of your wall
lApply Concrete or Mortar
• Fill up the frame with either concrete or mortar.
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction to allow the mixture to cure.
lPrepare the Brick Wall’s Mortar
• Mix the mortar for the brick wall construction
• Follow the manufacturer’s instruction for the process.
When you’re done laying the bricks, you can remove the protective tents once you’re certain the rain has stopped. Exposure to sun and air will speed up the curing process, which is quite important to protect the integrity of your structure.
If you’re planning on adding a house extension to your property, you’d probably be worried about whether or not your proposed extension would require a planing permission. Well, it may be relieving to know that not every house extension project would require a formal consent, and in fact, several extensions are covered by the permitted development rights. Not only can this save you a considerable amount of time especially at the project’s planning phase, but it’ll also save you money on the application fee. In the UK, single storey extensions to the house’s rear can be 3 metres deep for both semi detached houses and terraces or 8 metres deep for detached homes.
So how do you know when you’d require a planning permission for your home extension? Well, if your extension plan fits these criteria explained below, then your project is most likely going to be allowable as a permitted development.
• Extensions, which includes previous additions, must not go beyond half of the original house’s total surrounding land area.
• The main elevation, or side elevation where it fronts the highway, must not be extended forward.
• For single storeys, the rear additions must not extend more than the original house’s rear by more than 3 metres in both semi attached homes and terraces (4 metres for detached houses).
• Extensions to the side must be a single storey with a height not exceeding 4 metres and not going beyond 50% of the original house’s width.
• Extensions hat within 2 metres of a boundary should have a eaves height not more than 3 metres.
• Multi storey addition must not extend beyond the original house’s rear wall by a maximum of 3 metres or 7 metres of the boundary opposite the rear wall.
• Permitted development rights do not apply in listed buildings or designated areas.
Over the years there has been an increase in the recommended thickness of loft insulation by the government. Obviously, the reason behind this is pretty simply - the thicker the layer of your loft insulation the bigger your savings. The UK government is very keen to every house in the country to have loft insulation fitted where possible as it helps to minimize the heating demands of these properties. Households get to benefit from loft insulation in so many ways which includes reduced energy energy bills as well as having a home that stays at a more comfortable temperature for longer.
Generally, for the government energy efficiency is crucial as it implies that the highest demand ( which is usually the time of the day when gas or electricity use is at its peak ) reduces, since each building requires slightly less energy. Overall, that ultimately implies that new power plants don’t have to be built which is some nice cost savings for the government.
In the 1980’s, any thickness of loft insulation from 25 mm to 50 mm was considered the standard. But then, building regulations stated that homes should have as much as 100 mm of loft insulation. Over time, this gradually increased to 270mm for new builds and also recommended for other properties, although not essential. As a result of this, there’s always a need to check how much insulation you currently have in your loft before you decide to purchase more. You may discover that you already have something within the range of 20 mm to 200 mm up there and knowing this and the insulation values will assist in determining how much more you’ll need to purchase, if any at all. You should also note that some modern materials can offer the same thermal insulation whilst not being as thick.
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