Interior work | Stud Walls
Loanhead - EH20
Enquiry from: Catherine W
Start Date: Immediate
2 bedrooms to get dry lining plastered, sizes are 3.52m x3.98 and 3.75m x 3.98
Internal or partition walls can be moved or knocked through in your home, which can modify the room layout and establish a substantial open plan room design for a large living area or a kitchen diner. When moving or knocking through internal walls, it is important to understand both the type of internal wall that it is, and whether or not it's a load bearing wall. Internal walls can be brick or block partitions, timber stud partitions, or even prefabricated wall panels. There are no shortcuts when it comes to ascertaining whether a wall is load bearing or not, it's always worth engaging the services of a structural engineer if you are uncertain or can't view original plans for your premises. Load bearing walls can be moved, but this may also be more costly and involves using additional load bearing solution, for example steel lintels. Moving or knocking through internal walls will typically consist of demolition of the pre-existing wall, rebuilding or restoring the new walls, replastering and moving electrics. It could also require alterations to the floor, as sometimes the floors between rooms will not be entirely level, and knocking through interior walls can reveal this. Generally moving internal walls won't require planning permission, but you will need to adhere to building regulations for insulation and sound proofing. Consulting with a structural engineer will ensure that any interior wall changes that you plan on doing will keep your property structurally sound.
The average cost of Plasterboard dry lining is £850. Costs vary based upon the materials and the tradesman hired. The upper price range can be as high as £977.5. The material costs are in most cases around £212.5
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Labour cost | £595 | |
Material cost | £213 | |
Waste removal | £43 |
Requests for quotations in Loanhead in January 2025
Requests for Plasterboard dry lining quotations in Loanhead in January 2025. 0% change from December 2024.
Requests for Plasterboard dry lining quotations in Midlothian in January 2025. 0% change from December 2024.
Loanhead (pop. 6,900) is a village in Midlothian, Scotland, in a commuter belt to the south of Edinburgh, and close to Roslin, Bonnyrigg as well as Dalkeith. The community was improved coal as well as oil shale mining, and also the paper sectors. Loanhead remains to grow, greatly because of the impact of the continued growth of Straiton Retail Park that includes one of only two IKEA shops in Scotland, yet also significantly as a dormitory community for Edinburgh, parts of which are under 20 mins away. Despite the closeness of large stores such as Sainsbury's as well as Costco, the main road, Clerk Street, is active with website traffic and local shoppers. A huge, modern-day industrial estate with around 100 various issues offers a large range of tasks for local citizens. Services include MacSweens haggis manufacturing facility, as well as Authorities Scotland's Communications Centre (The Force Communications Centre, or FCC) where all radio web traffic and also emergency calls are dealt with. The Pentlands industrial estate was opened in the 1970s, and also a number of retail as well as other organisations trade from the periphery of the town. These were from the similarity Gregg's to the more commercial companies focusing on welding as well as steel fabrication.
Loanhead - EH20
Enquiry from: Catherine W
Start Date: Immediate
2 bedrooms to get dry lining plastered, sizes are 3.52m x3.98 and 3.75m x 3.98
Edinburgh - EH54
Enquiry from: Lorraine R
Start Date: Immediate
one stud wall to split a living room in two. for my disabled sons house. he is vat excempt for most building works or projects due to this. need a job done asap due to a time restriction. are you the ...
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How To Put Up Plasterboard
Putting up a plasterboard is a vital process when it comes to home renovations. However as daunting as it may seem, with a good guide and regular practice you can master the skill within a small period of time. If you lack proper training and experience, we’d recommend you hire a seasoned professional plasterer for help so as to get the best result and also avoid additional costs due to possible damages.
Putting up plasterboard is way quicker than wet plastering and also significantly reduces the drying time that can slow down your renovation plans. With a plasterboard, you can delve straight into the decorating stage and achieve a smooth finish. Below are the steps required to put up a plasterboard.
• The first step is cutting the plasterboard to shape which be one of the most challenging parts of the process. This is because you’ll need to fit the board around things such as plug sockets and window sills. As a result, this involves cutting complex shapes rather than just a simple straight line. To get this done, simply mark out the cut required with the use of a tape measure, combination square and spirit level for a better precision. Once done, you can then use a plasterboard pad saw to cut along the marked spots.
• After you made the required cuts, the next step is putting up the plasterboard. And depending on where the boards are going to be put, this could be a very challenging task. If you’re going to put the boards on the ceiling or somewhere very high up, you’d probably need an extra pair of hands for help. To get this done, use the appropriate screws to secure the boards in place if you’re installing them directly on studs. However, if you’d be fixing them onto bricks or blocks, a drywall adhesive is your best bet.
Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!
• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.
• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.
• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.
• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.
• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.
• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.
• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.
• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.
• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.
The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.
How To Fit Plasterboard
If you’re planning to renovate your house, then here is a must-read guide! Fitting of plasterboard is a crucial step when it comes to renovation. If you’re bringing down an existing lath and plaster for an upgraded surface or adding a new wall, a plasterboard is required for your project to be a true success. If you’re a novice with no prior practice or experience, you can protect your investment by hiring the services of a professional plasterer to guarantee the best results, the first time. However, we’ve put together this guide to give you an insight on how the plasterboard fitting process is done.
To get started, you’ll need a power drill, hammer, plasterboard nails or screws, broad knife, utility knife, measurement tape, pencil, ladder as well as a joint tape.
Before proceeding, you need to identify the number of plasterboard sheets needed to commence the project by measuring the height and width of the wall as well as calculating the square footage. If you possess a stud timber wall, the steps below will get you the best results.
• Measure the walls and mark the plasterboard where you’ll make the cuts. Start with a full sheet and cut pieces down in such a way that would fit
• Score the front paper of the plasterboard with utility knife. Fold the sheet to get a clean cut through the board and make use of the knife to the remaining paper.
• Place the first sheet against the wall and use an offcut to prevent the plasterboard from touch the floor.
• Make the plasterboard rest snugly against the wall in position and screw it firmly on each stud. Once done, fasten it at all the sheets’ edges and in a line down the stud to make for a firm connection. Follow the same process for the remaining plasterboard sheet till the wall is fully covered.
How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard
If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!
• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.
• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard
• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.
• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.
• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.
• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.
• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.
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