Interior work | Stud Walls
London - N4
Enquiry from: Neville F
Start Date: Immediate
fitting a false ceiling in a small bedroom
Internal or partition walls can be relocated or knocked through in your property, which can adjust the area layout and create a larger open plan room design for a generous living area or a kitchen diner. When relocating or knocking through interior walls, it is vital to understand both the kind of internal wall that it is, and whether it's a load bearing wall. Internal walls can be brick or block partitions, timber stud partitions, or even prefabricated wall panels. There are no shortcuts when it comes to ascertaining whether a wall is load bearing or not, it's always worth engaging the services of a structural engineer if you are unclear or can't view original plans for your property. Load bearing walls can be moved, but this is generally more expensive and involves installing additional load bearing solution, such as steel lintels. Moving or knocking through internal walls will generally consist of demolition of the pre-existing wall, replacing or restoring the new walls, replastering and moving electrics. It may additionally necessitate alterations to the floor, as in some cases the floors between rooms aren't entirely level, and knocking through interior walls can reveal this. Generally moving interior walls will not require planning permission, but you'll need to adhere to building regulations for insulation and sound proofing. Consulting a structural engineer will ensure that any interior wall changes that you intend on doing will keep your property structurally sound.
The average cost of Plasterboard dry lining is £850. Costs vary based upon the materials and the tradesman hired. The upper price range can be as high as £977.5. The material costs are in most cases around £212.5
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Labour cost | £595 | |
Material cost | £213 | |
Waste removal | £43 |
Requests for quotations in Haringey in February 2025
Requests for Plasterboard dry lining quotations in Haringey in February 2025. 0% change from January 2025.
Requests for Plasterboard dry lining quotations in London County in February 2025. 0% change from January 2025.
The London Borough of Haringey is a London borough in North London, classified by some definitions as a part of Inner London, and by others as part of Outer London. It was established in 1965 by the amalgamation of three former boroughs. It shares borders with six other London boroughs. Clockwise from the north, they are: Enfield, Waltham Forest, Hackney, Islington, Camden, and Barnet. Haringey covers an area in excess of 11 square miles (28.5 km2). The local authority is Haringey London Borough Council.
In line with population estimates from the middle of 2014, Haringey includes a permanent population of around 267541 individuals. There are about 97101 homes in Haringey. Of these, 46 per cent are owner occupied. The borough is characterised by some intense contrasts. Locations in the west, such as Highgate, Muswell Hill and Crouch End are amongst the most prosperous in the country. Within the east of the borough, however, some wards are classified as being amongst the most deprived ten per cent inside the nation.
Haringey is also a borough of contrasts geographically. The borough consists of big locations of green space, which make up more than 25 per cent of its total area. Some of the more familiar nearby landmarks include Alexandra Palace, Bruce Castle, Jacksons Lane, Highpoint I and II, and Tottenham Hotspur Football Club.
London - N4
Enquiry from: Neville F
Start Date: Immediate
fitting a false ceiling in a small bedroom
Watford - WD17
Enquiry from: Trevor A
Start Date: Immediate
To build a stud wall with a doorway with an arch Wall approx 10ft wide x 8 ft high
Hayes - UB4
Enquiry from: Waleed C
Start Date: Immediate
Stud wall partition with door cutout
Watford - WD18
Enquiry from: Dario M
Start Date: Immediate
we would like a stud wall to be erected between living and dining room. the rooms were previously separated by a wall which was removed. the original door to the living room was closed off, and we wou...
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How To Dot And Dab A Plasterboard
If you want a fast and simple way to achieve a smooth and sturdy wall which is decoration-ready, then dot and dab plasterboard is the way to go! It’s a relative simple process but can also be a bit challenging. Therefore, if you lack the necessary training or experience, hiring a professional would be a great step to protect your investment and guarantee the best results. Here, we’ll provide you with a deep insight into the plasterboard’s dot and dab procedures. Let’s have a look!
• At the thickness of the board with the adhesive, mark the ceiling and floor as well as the wall to indicate the centre of each board.
• Ensure the wall’s height is 15mm more than the plasterboard
• Make a mixture of the adhesive and achieve a thick consistency. Apply a consistent layer of the mixture around the wall’s perimeter, edge of the ceiling and any other openings with the use of a trowel.
• Select dabs that are about 250mm long and 50mm to 75mm wide and apply the adhesive in them. Make use of 3 vertical rows for individual boards. Also ensure to apply, at skirting level, a band of adhesive.
• Position the board’s reverse side against the dabs, and laying against the packers. Then make the board align with the ceiling and floor marks with the help of a straight edge.
• Raise the board till its tight against the ceiling with a board lifter. Once done, use the plasterboard to wedge the board into place before you remove the board lifter.
• Repeat the same process for the remaining parts of the room. Once completed, make sure the adhesive is set before you remove the boards.
How Much Plasterboard Do I Need?
Although many people especially contractors have a tough time estimating the number of drywall or plasterboard needed to complete a project, it’s a rather simple task if all factors are taken into consideration. If you’re able to follow the same procedures taken by professionals to count dry wall sheets, you’ll be in the right direction. Let’s have a look at the procedures to follow!
lTake Square Footage Measurement
• Measure the square footage of the area where the plasterboard will be fitted.
• Multiply the height by the width of each wall or ceiling area.
• Add all quantities to obtain a total square-foot amount.
lCalculate Drywall Sheets
• To calculate the number of drywall or plasterboard sheet is very simple once you’ve gotten the total square footage.
• To get started, simply divide the total square footage of area by 32 (that’s if you are using a 4 by 8 sheets) or you can also make use of 48 to make the division (only if you’re making use of the 4 by 12 sheets).
• The answer you get after the division will give you the full number of plasterboard sheets that’s required to complete the project.
We’d recommend you include an extra 10 to 15 percent of whatever you calculate to take care of the possible odd cuts and wastages. This implies that if your total area is 1600 square feet while incorporating 4 by 8 sheets, simply divide 1600 by 32 which equals 50 sheets, now take 10% of 50 which equals 5, then add back the 5 extra to the 50 sheets earlier calculated to get 55 sheets. If you wish to estimate the cost, simply multiply the number of sheets gotten by the price per sheet. Do not forget to include delivery charges and local taxes.
How To Plasterboard A Wall
If you’re looking to plasterboard your wall, one of the essential things to have in mind is that the plasterboard must be hung horizontally and not vertically. Due to the way they’re manufactured, plasterboard sheets normally possess a “grain along the length. This implies that, it’s only when they’re firmly placed perpendicular against the wall that they’re able to achieve their maximum strength. Materials you’ll need to complete this task includes: Tape measure, stanley knife, pencil, spirit level, drill driver or screw gun, surform, drywall screws and handsaw. Now let’s have a look at the wall plasterboarding steps!
• To plasterboard a wall the first step to take is to place each board in such a way to make the edges the centre of the noggins and upright. Also, the the adjoining walls and door openings should fit closely to the edges.
• Work from the door opening to the ending wall. From the the stud’s edge to the noggin’s centre, use your tape measure to measure a cut board and as a rule to mark up.
• Place your spirit level on the marks and use the Stanley knife to run a line along the intended cut. Once done, turn the board on its edge and give a sharp push on the back to split.
• Cut the paper left with the knife after folding the split edge back on itself. This way, you should get a nice and clean edge.
• In its right position, place the board up against the studwork. Install the screws on the board’s edges where a noggin or upright can be seen.
• Mark lines down across the board at the stud’s centre.
• Cut the end boards to length.
• Install the remaining boards as mentioned above. While doing this, make sure the factory edges are together.
• Cut any board extending into an opening and finish the edges using a surform.
We’d recommend you hire the professional services of a plasterer for the best results especially if you lack the necessary training or experience. Plasterboarding a wall can be a tricky challenge and you’d save yourself some time, money and effort by getting it right on the first trial.
Cutting a plasterboard is a relatively simple process requiring only some basic tools. Unfortunately, the lack of knowledge serves as big deterrent for many people who wishes to put it to good use. Plasterboard can actually be sawn using an ordinary timber saw that’s fine-toothed to get a cleaner edge. However, the basic tools you may also need includes a sharp knife (Stanley Knife), pencil, a fine sandpaper, a straight edge and measurement tape as well as a wall board saw. Let’s have a look at the cutting process!
• Firstly, you need to put the plasterboard sheet flat on a firm surface.
• Use the tape measurement to measure the cut you wish to make.
• With the help of a pencil, simply mark out the part you wish to cut on the plasterboard’s front side.
• Once marked, place a spirited level over the marked spot on the plasterboard sheet you want to cut.
• Cut a shallow mark into the plasterboard sheet using the Stanley Knife to cut along the edge.
• The cut should be slow and gradual to ensure you do not wander off the edge of the marked area.
• Once the shallow cut has been made, turn the plasterboard sheet on its edge and deliver a quick and sharp push towards the plasterboard’s back and on one side of the cut.
• Place the plasterboard sheet backing against a flat surface ensuring the line of the cut is over an edge. Once done, give a quick and sharp push towards the back of the plasterboard sheet and on the part of the board is reaches beyond the edge.
• Using a fine sandpaper, remove all forms of paper burrs.
The process of cutting plasterboard requires a lot of practice. If you lack the training and experience, the cutting process is best left to a proficient professional who can guarantee the best results the first time and save you some additional costs due to potential damages.
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