House Rewiring in Portstewart

Also commonly referred to as a consumer unit in recent times, a fuse box is responsible for controlling and allocating of the electricity in your home. They hold the power any time there’s an overload in one of the circuits which in turn, prevents fire as well as electrical damage. Fuse boxes are often incorporated in homes but consumer units are very rapidly replacing them. Therefore, when your fuse box breaks down, it’s always a smart decision to replace them with consumer units due to the fact that they’re safer and also comply with building regulations while also being a lot easier to use. If you’re extending your home, upgrading to a larger capacity model enables you to make use of more power with the power overloading. In this post, we’re going to cover the amount you’re expected to pay to replace or install a new fuse box or consumer unit as well as the factors that may affect the cost.

For a 10 way dual RCD consumer unit, the typical cost range will be between £250 to £600, meanwhile 15 way dual RCD consumer unit should cost within the range of £300 to £700. Overall, the smaller the house, the fewer the circuits that’ll be needed, hence the difference in the aforementioned prices.

There a number of factors that can affect the cost of replacing a fuse box. These factors includes the the size of the house in question ( the bigger the house , the more the circuits there are and the bigger the fuse box needed), the location ( for instance, places like London where there are higher demands are likely to be more expensive than other regions ).

If you’re thinking about adding new power sockets to your room, then you’ve come to the right place! This task can be a very tricky one especially if you don’t know how to go about it. If you don’t have the skills or experience necessary to pull this off, then we’d strongly recommend you hire the services of qualified and licensed electrician who can guarantee the best results for help. In this guide, we’re going to take you through the numerous steps you’d have to take to make sure your new power sockets is added successfully. Let’s take a look!

• All the power to the working area at the primary electrical panel should be turned off.
• Identify the cut area for individual electrical box.
• Pilot saw blade by drilling corner holes
• Drill into framing for wiring, if required
• Connect electrical wires to the electrical panel from the outlet box holes, pulling four feet through the wall.
• Attach white wires to silver screws as well as black wires to brass screws and also the ground wire.
• Incorporate electrical tape to tape around the box
• Connect the box to the wall and cover with the outlet plate
• Carry out the process for individual outlet needed
• De-energize the entire electrical panel by shutting off the house’s main breaker
• Fit an arc volt breaker by connecting white and black wire to the breaker
• Connect white wire from the new breaker directly onto the neutral bar of the electrical panel
• Finally, you can turn the main breaker back on.

Unlike in houses built in the 1970s where a good majority of the houses will not need to be rewired, for houses built in the 1960s you’d probably need to rewire the entire house unless the wiring is the modern PVCu coated type. Generally, the homes built especially in the 1960s and 1970s brought about enormous changes. This is because over the years our way of living began to change and as a result, our need for electricity became even greater. In response to this, the electrical systems we incorporate needed to change in order to match the new set standards.

In the 1960s, the amperage normally used was increased to 100, which enables home and property owners to power their dishwasher, microwave as well as refrigerator all on one circuit. However, while this may be a remarkable improvement for our grand parents, this is just enough to cater for our modern day appliances. In recent times, new homes are constructed using a wide range of dedicated circuits due to the fact that each of our appliances makes use of much more electricity to function. Consequently because the 100 amp panels of the 1960s possessed restricted space for breakers, home and property owners who still had the units in their homes will inevitably require a sub panel or a new panel entirely - meaning a total rewiring of their property.

Furthermore in the 1960s, builders turned to aluminium from the previously used copper as it was a great conductor and also happens to be relatively cheap. However, after a couple of years a host of electrical fires cropped up in houses that are wired using aluminium. It was later discovered that when the switch to aluminium was made, the light switches or receptacles which were originally made for the previously used copper was overlooked. It was learned that there’s a corrosive chemical reaction that arises as a result of the two dissimilar metals when connected. Hence, the more reason why aluminium wired houses in the 1960s needs to be rewired.

For most homeowners, rewiring a house is always a sore subject they’d prefer to avoid especially when they think of the expenses they’d have to incur or the mess and complexity that the project involves. However, this is a subject we’d all have to face sooner or later as an old wiring poses a lot of drawbacks, while an improper wiring can also prove to be more expensive and even cause more damage as it can lead to not only electrical shorts but also electrical fires. When a wire triggers a spark or a current overload, this can cause fire and the entire house may be down in ashes within a couple of minutes. Hence, one of the several reasons why house rewiring is just too important to ignore.

In this FAQ, we’re going to take you through the house rewiring process so as to ensure that your project is done to perfection. However, if you do not feel confident enough to pull this off, we’d strongly recommend you get in touch with a reliable electrical professional who can guarantee that a safe and effective work is done.

• Firstly, you’d have to upgrade the main service panel to a minimum of 100 amps
• Fit dedicated circuits in the service panel for all the home’s major appliances.
• Allow for a space of about 6 to 8 feet between electrical outlets throughout the house in order to cut out the need to run extension cords which could be a fire hazard.
• Install only three-prong type to avoid electrical shocks when fitting new outlets.
• Using ground fault circuit interrupters, fit outlets in the bathrooms, kitchen as well as outdoors. These outlets will shut themselves out so as to prevent electrical shock when wet.