Garden Sheds in Westgate-on-sea

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Garden Sheds in Westgate-on-sea

Garden sheds are a critical component of any useful garden space. They offer storage for bulky garden tools, as well as for other tools. A generous shed might even offer enough room for plant potting or a general workshop. Alternatively, a sizeable shed could be used as an inside sitting area. Garden sheds come in a huge range of sizes and can be specified to your particular needs, providing you total control over the number and position of windows, type, size and location of door, and style of roof. Garden sheds usually are available in one of three materials. Wooden sheds are the common design and can be integrated well into any garden creating a natural look, especially if the wood used for the shed is matched to adjacent fences. Wooden sheds remain very popular, although they will require maintenance by retreating or staining the wood to protect the lifespan of the shed. Garden sheds are also manufactured from metal, which is very resilient and therefore great for storage of tools and other equipment. Metal sheds additionally require very little maintenance. The final material for garden sheds is plastic, which in modern examples is far more durable than might be expected. When considering a garden shed, it's important to make sure that you pick one which will fit in your garden space. Garden sheds should be sited on a level area, and will require a base to be built as a foundation. This base could be made from either concrete, paving, gravel or a floating wooden base, but will need to be the right size for your shed and capable of supporting the weight of your shed when loaded.

Average Garden shed cost in Westgate-on-sea

The typical cost of Garden shed is £600. Costs vary based on the materials and the organisation selected. The upper price range can be as high as £690. The material costs are typically around £150

Average price per Garden shed job in 2025

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£450

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£600

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£690

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Prices based on actual Garden shed costs for Westgate-on-sea, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Garden shed installation cost in Westgate-on-sea 2025

Labour cost £420
Material cost £150
Waste removal £30
Time frame: 1-2 days

Garden shed searches in January 2025

Garden shed Projects in Westgate-on-sea in December 2024

247

Requests for quotations in Westgate-on-sea in December 2024

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Requests for Garden shed quotations in Westgate-on-sea in December 2024. 0% change from November 2024.

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Requests for Garden shed quotations in Kent in December 2024. 0% change from November 2024.

Source: Numbers calculated based on the search volumes in major search engines

Garden shed searches in cities and towns near Westgate-on-sea December 2024

Westgate-on-sea

Westgate-on-Sea is a seaside community and also civil parish in northeast Kent, England, with a population of 6,996 at the 2011 Census. It is within the Thanet local government area and also borders the bigger seaside resort of Margate. Its two sandy coastlines have stayed a popular visitor attraction because the town's advancement in the 1860s from a tiny farming area. The town is notable for as soon as being the location of a Royal Naval Air Service seaplane base at St Mildred's Bay, which safeguarded the Thames Estuary seaside towns during World War I. The community is the subject of Sir John Betjeman's rhyme, Westgate-on-Sea. Residents have actually included the 19th-century cosmetic surgeon Sir Erasmus Wilson and former Archbishop of Canterbury William Temple. The artist Sir William Quiller Orchardson repainted several of his best-known photos while staying in Westgate-on-Sea. The British author Arnold Cooke participated in the town's Streete Preparatory School in the early 20th century, and also Eton headmaster Anthony Chenevix-Trench spent the earliest few years of his education in the community.

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Similar Customer Enquiries for Garden shed in Westgate-on-sea

25 May

Garden | Sheds

Westgate-on-Sea - CT8

Enquiry from: Catherine B

Start Date: Immediate

old shed to be demolished (it has an asbestos corrugated roof) and a new shed erected. the old shed is 10 x6 but the replacement will be 8 x6 are you the property owner: owner of the property do you ...

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18 Apr

Garden | Sheds

Westgate-on-Sea - CT8

Enquiry from: Jean J

Start Date: Immediate

Remove old hut 8' x 6' and erect a new one of same size.

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11 Aug

Garden | Sheds

Margate - CT9

Enquiry from: Karen F

Start Date: Immediate

customer made an enquiry for garden shed and confirmed on the quotatis site they would like quotes from a carpenter.mrs lives in the margate area and would like a call to discuss options.see below det...

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09 Aug

Garden | Sheds

Margate - CT9

Enquiry from: Karen F

Start Date: Immediate

customer in margate area has requested that we arrange quotes for their garden shed project.mrs are considering various options and would like to discuss with a carpenter directly.please call to discu...

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01 May

Garden | Sheds

Birchington - CT7

Enquiry from: Paul S

Start Date: Immediate

to build a corner summerhouse 7x7 (hampton shire) are you the property owner: owner of the property do you have a: medium size garden what level of service are you looking for: install please call to...

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03 Feb

Garden | Sheds

Whitstable - CT5

Enquiry from: Gen D

Start Date: Immediate

customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: semi detached, work description: for the garden i’d like all the decking to be replaced. i’m thinking of...

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09 Oct

Garden | Sheds

Whitstable - CT5

Enquiry from: Matt W

Start Date: Immediate

customer visited the mygardeningprices.co.uk site and submitted an enquiry. property type: semi detached, work description: want ground leveled out for large shed are you the property owner: tenant (...

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06 Jan

Garden | Sheds

Deal - CT14

Enquiry from: Anthony H

Start Date: Immediate

Hello I need to move my Norseman interlocking summer house to another place in my garden. can you help find someone to do this? Are you the property owner: Owner of the property What level of servi...

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FAQs

How to insulate a shed?
If you spend time in your shed, whether you use it as a summer house or an office, you’ll probably want a bit of insulation in there for when it starts to get chilly. There are different ways to insulate a shed, and some aren’t expensive at all. You just need to decide what the best way for you is. Bubble wrap If you don’t spend too much time in your shed, bubble wrap is an easy and cheap way to insulate your shed. Simply attach bubble wrap strips to the framing of the shed to create an air gap, then screw or nail a sheet of MDF over the top. Fibreglass wool Fibreglass wool is a good option if you want to insulate your shed further. Make sure you use safety equipment to protect your eyes, nose, mouth and hands when you’re handling it. Tack a breathable membrane to the inner walls of the shed, then place the fibreglass wool on top. Add a sheet of MDF or wood board, ensuring all the fibreglass is covered. Insulating shed windows and doors You'll often feel draughts through shed windows and doors, and these are easy to block up. You can use foam filler or liquid wool along the edges of the windows and gaps in the door frame. Let it dry out after you’ve applied it then cut off any excess. Insulate the floor If you’re building a new shed, you could fit some underfloor insulation to the grid of the shed base – it could help reduce up to 40% of heat lost through the shed floor. But if your shed’s already built, you can line the floor with a breathable membrane then lay a rug or piece of carpet down. The membrane underneath stops any damp or rot forming, so it’s best not to lay a rug straight down on the shed floor.
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
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