- Plan your shed base
You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
- A concrete base laid on hardcore
- Concrete slabs on sharp sand
- Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
- An interlocking plastic system
- Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
- Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
- Put up the shed walls
- Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
- Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
- Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
- Fit the roof
- If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
- Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
- Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
- Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
- Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
- Add the shed windows
- Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
- From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
- Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
- Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
Isle Of Bute
The Isle of Bute, called Bute, is an island in the Firth of Clyde in Scotland, UK. It is split into highland as well as lowland locations by the Highland Boundary Fault. Previously a basic island of the larger County of Bute, it is now part of the council area of Argyll and Bute. Bute's resident population was 6,498 in 2011, a decline of simply over 10% from the figure of 7,228 recorded in 2001 versus a history of Scottish island populations all at once expanding by 4% to 103,702 for the exact same duration. The name "Bute" is of uncertain origin. Watson and also Mac an Tàilleir assistance a derivation from Old Irish bót ("fire"), perhaps in reference to signal fires. This referral to beacon fires may date from the Viking period, when the island was probably recognized to the Norse as Bót. Various other possible derivations consist of Brythonic budh ("corn"), "success", St Brendan, or both, his reclusive cell. There is no most likely derivation from Ptolemy's Ebudae. The island was also known throughout the Viking period as Rothesay, possibly describing the personal name Roth or Roderick and also the Old Norse suffix ey ("island"). This name was ultimately taken by the main community on the island, whose Gaelic name is Baile Bhòid ("community of Bute").