Garden Sheds in Ilfracombe

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Garden Sheds in Ilfracombe

Garden sheds are a critical component of any functional garden space. They offer storage for bulky garden tools, as well as for other tools. A sizeable shed could even offer enough space for plant potting or a general workshop. Additionally, a big shed could be utilised as an inside seating area. Garden sheds are available in an enormous choice of sizes and can be specified to your precise requirements, providing you with total control over the amount and placement of windows, type, size and location of door, and design of roof. Garden sheds usually are available in one of three materials. Wooden sheds are the traditional design and can be integrated well into any garden creating a natural look, particularly if the wood used for the shed is matched to encircling fences. Wooden sheds remain extremely popular, although they will demand maintenance by retreating or staining the wood to maintain the lifespan of the shed. Garden sheds are also constructed from metal, which is very strong and therefore ideal for storage of tools and other equipment. Metal sheds also require very little maintenance. The final material for garden sheds is plastic, which in modern examples is far more resilient than might be expected. When contemplating a garden shed, it's important to make certain you pick one which will fit in your garden space. Garden sheds should be located on a flat area, and will require a base to be built as a foundation. This base could be made from either concrete, paving, gravel or a floating wooden base, but will need to be the right size for your shed and able to support the weight of your shed when loaded.

Average Garden shed cost in Ilfracombe

The typical cost of Garden shed is £600. Costs vary based on the materials and the organisation selected. The upper price range can be as high as £690. The material costs are typically around £150

Average price per Garden shed job in 2025

Avg. price low

Avg. price low
£475

Avg. price

Avg. price
£1,050

Avg. price high

Avg. price high
£1,595

£1700

£1275

£850

£425

£0

Prices based on actual Garden shed costs for Ilfracombe, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Garden shed installation cost in Ilfracombe 2025

Labour cost £420
Material cost £150
Waste removal £30
Time frame: 1-2 days

Garden shed searches in April 2025

Garden shed Projects in Ilfracombe in March 2025

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Requests for quotations in Ilfracombe in March 2025

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Requests for Garden shed quotations in Ilfracombe in March 2025. 0% change from February 2025.

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Requests for Garden shed quotations in Devon in March 2025. 0% change from February 2025.

Source: Numbers calculated based on the search volumes in major search engines

Garden shed searches in cities and towns near Ilfracombe March 2025

Ilfracombe

Ilfracombe is a seaside resort and civil parish on the North Devon coast, England. It has a modest harbour and is neighbored by cliffs. The parish extends along the coastline from the 'Coastguard Cottages' in Hele Bay toward the east and 4 miles along the Torrs to Lee Bay towards the west. The resort is hilly and the acme within the parish limit is at 'Hore Down Gate', 2 miles inland and at 860 feet (270 m) above sea level. The feature of Hillsborough Hill looms over the harbour and is the site of an Iron Age fortified settlement. In the developed environment, the architectural-award-winning Landmark Theatre is either loved or disliked for its peculiar double-conical design. The 13th-century parish church, Trinity, and the St Nicholas's Chapel, which is a lighthouse on Lantern Hill, have been joined by the Damien Hirst owned statue, Verity, as points of interest. In accordance with the 2011 Census, the town of Ilfracombe has a permanent population of around 11184. Up until the middle of the 19th century, Ilfracombe's economy was founded around maritime activities. This included importing lime and coal from Wales, fishing for herring, and world-wide trade to such regions as West Africa and the West Indies. In George III and the Regency period, the town, which had a population of 1800, was home to numerous navy workers. There were 4 admirals, multiple captains, and other commissioned and non-commissioned sailors. Over the 19th century, the town steadily turned into a traveler resort served by ferries along the Bristol Channel. The opening of the rail line further hastened this progression. For all your home renovations, make sure to find respected experts in Ilfracombe to make certain of quality.

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Similar Customer Enquiries for Garden shed in Ilfracombe

22 Jun

Garden | Sheds

Ilfracombe, Woolacombe - EX34

Enquiry from: Lorna W

Start Date: Immediate

small garden shed - mower and tools storage . shed ideally with installation do you have a: medium size garden what level of service are you looking for: supply, install are you the property owner: ow...

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29 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Bideford - EX39

Enquiry from: Jaqueline M

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hi i am looking for someone to come and quote for my front and back garden. we have just moved into the property and there are a number of bushes and trees that need either removing or pruning. plus t...

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25 Mar

Garden | Sheds

Bideford - EX39

Enquiry from: Carl F

Start Date: Immediate

Hi we want a 22*** shed/workshop supplied and installed, Regards Carl

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26 Sep

Garden | Sheds

Bideford - EX39

Enquiry from: Ruth W

Start Date: Immediate

A shed/summer house to replace my single, detached, 1930's garage

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FAQs

How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How to build a shed base?
You need a firm, level base for your shed to ensure that it stays structurally sound – without one, doors will sag, walls will lean and it won’t last you as long. But how do you build a shed base and what should you make it from? Timber shed bases A timber shed base is made from pressure-treated timber and has metal spikes that you hammer into the ground to keep it in place. You can often buy them with your shed installation kit, but they also come separately, often in 6x4 or 7x5 sizes. To build a timber shed base, you’ll drill holes then fit screws in the timber until the entire frame is built. Remember to check it’s square, then fix L-shaped feet to the inside of the frame. If you’re putting your shed on a hard surface like concrete, this is all you need to do. If you’re putting the base on soft ground, hammer in spikes at each corner until they’re level with the top of the base, then secure the spikes to the base with screws. Then you can position the shed floor onto the base. How to build a plastic shed base A plastic shed base is a simple and quick way to build a shed base. You can lay it on level concrete or paving slabs, but adding sharp sand on top will help keep it more secure. They come in a kit containing plastic grids. To build your plastic base, first measure out the site and hammer a peg into each corner and tie with string or builder’s line. Make it slightly larger than the shed base to help with drainage. Then cut into the lawn and remove the turf, making sure it’s level. Lay down a membrane sheet and weigh it down if it’s windy. Then lay out the number of plastic grids you need, then remove the locking pins and clip all the grids together. Once they’re all connected, put the locking pins back in the centre of the grids. Put your shed floor on top and you’re done! Concrete or paved shed bases For a concrete base or a shed base made from paving slabs, you’ll need to dig a sub-base. For concrete bases, you’ll need to dig down 150mm so you can add 75mm of compact hardcore under 75mm of concrete. For paved shed bases, you’ll want it to be about 120mm deep for 50mm of compact hardcore and the paving slabs.
  1. How to build a shed base out of paving slabs
    • Mix sand and cement together to make mortar or use a pre-mixed one
    • Use a trowel to lay mortar for 1 slab at a time on the sub-base and lift a damp-sided slab onto the mortar, using a piece of timber and club hammer to tap the slab into position carefully. Continue to lay the first row of slabs
    • Make equally-sized spacers in all the joints in the slabs to ensure they’re the same size, checking it’s level as you go along
    • Next lay slabs along the two adjacent outer edges, filling in the central area row by row
    • Leave the mortar to set according to the instructions or for at least 48 hours before filling in the joints with mortar or paving grout
  2. Building a shed base from concrete
    • Create a wooden frame around your shed base area (also called formwork) to stop the concrete from spreading
    • Mix pre-mixed concrete with water or use 1 part cement to 5 parts ballast
    • Wet the sub-base using a watering can with a rose on the end
    • Pour the concrete onto the framed base starting in one corner
    • Push the blade of a shovel up and down in the edges of the concrete to get rid of air bubbles
    • Use a rake to spread the concrete, leaving it around 18mm higher than the top of the frame. Work in sections of around 1-1.m2
    • Compact the concrete using a straight piece of timber that’s longer than the width of the base. Move the timber along the site, hitting it along at about half of its thickness at a time until the surface is evenly ridged
    • Remove excess concrete and level the surface by sliding the timber back and forwards from the edge that you started. Fill in any depressions and repeat until even
    • Run an edging trowel along the frame to round off exposed edges of the concrete and prevent chipping
    • Cover the concrete with a plastic sheet raised on wooden supports to allow slow drying. Weigh it down with bricks
    • Once the concrete is set, you can install your shed and remove the wooden frame with a crowbar
Don’t fancy having a go at building a shed base yourself? Get a range of quotes from a professional and see how much it will cost.
How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
  6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!
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