Garden Sheds in Bures

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Garden Sheds in Bures

Garden sheds are a critical component of any useful garden space. They can offer storage for bulky garden tools, as well as for other equipment. A substantial garden shed may offer enough space for plant potting or a general workshop. Alternatively, a substantial shed could be used as an inside seating area. Garden sheds come in a large array of sizes and can be specified to your precise requirements, providing you with full control over the number and placement of windows, type, size and location of door, and style of roof. Garden sheds generally are available in one of three materials. Wooden sheds are the common style and can be integrated well into any garden creating a natural look, especially if the wood used for the shed is matched to adjacent fences. Wooden sheds remain very popular, although they will demand maintenance by retreating or staining the wood to preserve the life of the shed. Garden sheds are also made of metal, which is very resilient and therefore great for storage of tools and other equipment. Metal sheds also require very little maintenance. The final material for garden sheds is plastic, which in modern examples is much more durable than might be expected. When contemplating a garden shed, it's critical to ensure that you select one which will fit in your garden space. Garden sheds should be placed on a level area, and will need a base to be built as a foundation. This base could be produced from either concrete, paving, gravel or a floating wooden base, but will need to be the right size for your shed and able to support the weight of your shed when loaded.

Average Garden shed cost in Bures

The typical cost of Garden shed is £600. Costs vary based on the materials and the organisation selected. The upper price range can be as high as £690. The material costs are typically around £150

Average price per Garden shed job in 2025

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£450
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£600
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£690

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Prices based on actual Garden shed costs for Bures, as reported by local LeadsDoWork members.

Garden shed installation cost in Bures 2025

Labour cost £420
Material cost £150
Waste removal £30
Time frame: 1-2 days

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Garden shed Projects in Bures in March 2025

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Bures

Bures is a village with numerous features in eastern England that straddles the Essex/Suffolk boundary. It is made up of both civil parishes: Bures Hamlet in Essex as well as Bures St. Mary in Suffolk. The location is bisected by the River Stour, the region limit from end of its tidewater to near its resource. The town is most often referred to collectively, as Bures. On respective financial institutions are 2 civil parishes: Bures Hamlet in Essex and Bures St. Mary in Suffolk. Each vary in county councils of those names as well as in district councils, in the second tier of local government, (Braintree, as well as Babergh). The town provides a post town as well as its pre-1996 (obsolete) Postal County was Suffolk. Bures is offered by a railway station on the Gainsborough Line, seen here in 1966. On the left bank is the medieval-core church of St Mary the Virgin housing 8 bells with the biggest weighing 21 cwt. They were boosted from six to eight bells in 1951 by Gillett as well as Johnston of Croydon. In regards to the clerical church, and also hence history before the invention of civil churches in the 1870s there is no department, conserve as to region; all falls into Bures St Mary, which reaches a comparable distance on each side of the river.

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FAQs

How to dismantle a shed?
It can seem daunting to dismantle a shed when you want to get a new one or just get rid of it for good. Every shed is different and is likely to have been put together in a different way, but there are some general rules that you can follow to make dismantling a shed a simple task.
  1. Remove fascias and trims Unscrew or prise off the screws and nails fixing the trims and fascias to your shed.
  2. Take off doors and remove windows Unscrew hinges from doors and take them off. Remove all metalwork once the door is off. If you’ve got frames on your windows, unscrew these, and remove the panes. Be extra careful if your windows are made of glass.
  3. Take off the roof Prise off the tacks from the roofing felt and take the felt off – you can’t reuse it, so you’ll need to throw it away. Unscrew the screws on the roof boards and slide them off the shed’s frame – you might need a friend to help you do this.
  4. Take out the roof brace (optional) If your roof has a brace, unscrew the brackets that hold it to the side of the shed. Remember not to lean on anything once you’ve taken the brace off as the walls might be wobbly.
  5. Unscrew the frame from the floor Remove all the screws that are holding the shed to the base, remembering not to lean on the walls.
  6. Unscrew the frame corners Starting at the corner of the front gable, remove the screws where the panels meet. Once a panel is free, lift it carefully out of the way so you can carry on with the others.
Tidy up all your tools and debris, clearing the area to make it safe, and you’re done!
How to build a shed?
A garden shed is a great option to add extra storage space in your garden. Lock away your lawnmower, tools, outdoor toys and furniture so it doesn’t get weather damaged or stolen. But how do you build a shed? We’ll go through a brief guide on building a shed using a flat packed one.
  1. Plan your shed base You must have a sturdy base for your shed, otherwise the frame won’t stand properly and could stop the door from opening. Decide whether you’re going to have:
    • A concrete base laid on hardcore
    • Concrete slabs on sharp sand
    • Treated wood beams on hardcore or shingle
    • An interlocking plastic system
    All bases should be laid on firm, level ground as far as possible.
  2. Treat wood with preservative To help your shed last as long as possible, you should coat all the wooden parts with timber preservative before you put it together.
  3. Put the shed floor together Some will need more assembly than others, but you need to make sure that the floor panel is attached to the joists; follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct spacing.
  4. Put up the shed walls
    • Mark the centre point of each wall on its bottom edge, then do the same for the shed floor so you can line them up together.
    • Stand the gable end on the base and line it up. Check that it’s vertical with a spirit level – you might need someone to support the panel while you do this. Use a temporary holding batten to keep it in place.
    • Fix a side panel to the gable end panel with countersunk screws, then add the second side panel in the same way.
    Don’t attach the panels to the floor until you’ve fitted your shed roof.
  5. Fit the roof
    • If the shed comes with a support bar, put this in position before you put the roof panels in.
    • Nail the roof panels in place, ensuring there’s a parallel and equal overlap at each end.
    • Roll out some roofing felt from front to back, leaving a 50mm overlap at each side. Secure it with clout-headed felt tacks at 100mm intervals.
    • Apply mastic sealant to the outside corners, then fix each corner trim with 30mm nails.
    • Add the fascias and finials, predrilling 2mm holes to avoid splitting the wood. Nail them through the felt into the shed using 40mm nails.
  6. Add the shed windows
    • Slide each windowsill into the tongue and groove cut out, then put the window cover strip in position, fixing it to the vertical framing.
    • From inside the shed, put the glazing sheets into the window rebates, making sure the bottom edge of the glazing sheets sit on the outside of the sill.
    • Fix the window beading on the top and sides with 25mm nails.
  7. Fix the walls to the floor Before you do anything, make sure you check that the centre marks on the walls line up with the marks on the shed floor. Then fix the wall panels to the floor with 50mm screws, aligning them with the joists.
    8. And that’s it! But if you’re not confident in building a shed yourself, there are plenty of professionals available who will be happy to help.
How to felt a shed roof?
Whether you want to felt a new shed roof or you’re re-felting your existing shed roof, it’s simple when you know how. Read our quick guide to see how easy it is.
  1. Remove any existing fascia boards Remove the fascia boards and the old felt if you’re re-felting.
  2. Measure the shed roof Measure the roof, taking into account that you should leave around 50mm for overlaps at the eaves and 75mm at the gable ends. You’ll probably need 3 pieces of felt, but some smaller sheds only need 2.
  3. Apply felt to the roof Once you’ve cut the felt to size, apply the each piece to the roof, pulling it tight. Then nail along the length of the roof at 100mm intervals. For nails at the bottom edge, they can be wider – around 300mm. If you’re adding a piece of felt in the middle of the shed along the apex, fix it using adhesive, then nail it at the lower edge at 50mm intervals.
  4. Tidy up the overhangs Fold down the felt at each overhang and nail it securely. Cut a slit in the overhang at the apex using a pen knife, then fold that down and nail at 100mm intervals along the gable. If you like, you can add fascia boards to keep the shed looking neat. Use wood nails to secure them and then trim away any excess felt.
That’s it. It sounds scary, but it won’t take you long to felt your shed roof as long as you follow instructions carefully.
How to make a shed door?
There are a few ways to make a shed door and each has their benefits, but we’re going to go through a quick guide on how to make a ledged and braced shed door, which is a good option to stop the door from dropping over time. Tools and equipment required
  • Tongue and groove timber boards
  • Boards for the ledges and braces, at least 20mm thick
  • Nails
  • Hammer
  • Saws, including a circular saw
  • Chisel
  • Mallet
How to make your shed door
  1. Cut your boards to size If you can’t buy boards at the right height and width for your door, cut the boards to length using a circular saw. Don’t forget to sand and treat any cut ends with timber preservative. Lay out the boards in the best arrangement for your shed door, with the inside of the door facing up.
  2. Arrange the ledges and braces On most shed doors, you’ll probably need 3 boards across the back of the door to form the ledges. The ledges keep the door straight and keep the boards of the door together. The braces are the parts of the door that slope down to form a ‘Z’ shape between the ledges. Ensure that the braces are sloped up from the bottom and middle hinge to stop the door from sagging as the timber expands and contracts in the weather. Once you’re happy with the arrangement, mark the spots on the boards where they will meet and cut out of the housings using a chisel and mallet.
  3. Put the door together Use clamps to pull the boards together and hold the ledges and braces in place. Nail from the front of the door through the boards and ledges to fix them. Secure the ledges and braces with screws; you may want to pre-drill and countersink holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Remember to treat them with preservative if you do.
  4. Fix the shed door hinges Make sure you measure carefully before attaching the hinges, ensuring you know where the pin sits in relation to where the door opens.
  5. Treat the door and add locks and handles Apply some wood oil, like linseed or teak oil, to help prevent water damage. Then add locks or handles to your shed to help keep it secure.
    6. If you’d rather leave it to the professionals, there are plenty of specialists that will be able to make a shed door for you, or even put up an entire shed.
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